Mar 23

Port of Call: Marseille France

Of course our day in Marseille was rainy and blustery. Not at all like this beautiful shot of the Basilique de Notre Dame de la Garde

Port of Call: Marseille France.

Here is a thing to remember for the future: the guests on a transatlantic cruise are completely different from the ones embarking for a Mediterranean cruise. The first group is mostly adult, attentive and respectful, the latter act much more entitled and the pools and sundecks are all at once covered with children and teenagers. Gone is the quiet, respectful and laid back atmosphere from the wide open spaces of the Atlantic and noise levels are up several decibels beyond a car engine’s roar.

It sounded like the “newbies” had taken the city loudness of Barcelona with them on board. True, the night before arriving in Barcelona, we had partied loudly with our new Australian friends Jason and Kathi and closed down (if that would be possible) Churchill’s cigar lounge, but our quiet stroll down Barcelona’s Las Ramblas did not prepare us for the return back to the ship. The smoker’s lounge on deck 16 was taken over by a Kardashian type crowd that spoke Italian and acted as if they had just purchased the ship. Dancing, screaming, making out, running?! Well, just let’s wait and see what would happen after they disembarked in Rome, before we pass final judgement.

The weather did not significantly improve during the first couple of days of the central/eastern Mediterranean part of the cruise and the French Port City of Marseille became hazily visible through the rainy portholes this morning.

Marseille’s Friendship Locks

The Port City of Marseille France marks the point where the Provence (Rhone River) dives into the Mediterranean Sea and the famous French Côte d’Azur begins. As a port city, it is the oldest ( founded by Phocaea Greeks from what is today Western Turkey abt. 600 BC) and second populous city (almost 2 million people) in France. Marseille’s openness to the Mediterranean Sea has made it a cosmopolitan city marked by numerous cultural and economic exchanges with Southern Europe, the Middle East, North Africa and Asia. In Europe, the city has the third largest Jewish community after London and Paris.

Han, being very familiar with this part of France, suggested we walk into town, grab some lunch (after all this is the area where his favorite Bouillabaisse comes from), take some pictures and settle back aboard.

The ship’s organized tour bus took us from the cruise port to a spot just around the corner from where the old marina connects with the old town. It’s a good walk and the sidewalks are safe and protected from traffic. Where the stores and restaurants start, catacomb like passage ways keep the heat and rain away and you can leisurely make your way up to town. Considering the blustery weather that day, we enjoyed our walk and stretching our legs. The old Hotel de Ville, built in 1653, the brand-new Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean, the Palais Longchamps and a nice walk around the city marina were all we got in before a nice lunch was consumed and we returned to the ship.

Palais Longchamp with ornamental fountains
Town Square in Marseille
The Old Lighthouse in Marseille Port
A blustery day in Marseille
A rainy day in Marseille
Museum of Civilisations & Europe and the Mediterranee
New Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean in Marseille
Ornamental Façade on City Hall built in 1653
Graffiti Artistry and Car parking
Anchors Away
Marseille's stairs to the city
Marseille's Old Town up to the Basilique
Lunch in The city Marina in Marseille
Bullabessa or Bouillabaisse originated in Marseille

Even though Marseille is an interesting city with a very cosmopolitan culture and character, it is a primary port city and thus not really well suited for cruise ship visitors. It’s a workmen’s city, the largest port in France and the second largest in the Mediterranean Sea. We think the cruise ships made it a port of call because of the attractive tour packages to the Gypsy area of the Camargue (1 hr by car) and Aix en Provence (32 min. by car or bus). Even Cannes is only just over 100 miles away.

Tomorrow’s schedule calls for another Mediterranean port city in Italy with the name of Genoa (Genova). We spent several days there about 6 years ago when we traveled Europe by bus, train and car. The same conclusion goes for that city (birthplace of Cristoforo Colombo); it’s a working port city and probably only of interest for the cruise ship day trip tours to Tuscany (Florence, St.Gimignano), Siena, Pisa and Livorno. We’ll see if we will even get off board.

Oh here’s another tip for starting cruisers. The cruise ship companies inform you that they will charge you a standard 15% gratuity tip for the crew and service on board. We felt that we would only tip our direct service personnel (cabin steward, favorite restaurant servers, bartender(s) and whosever service we thought to be exceptional). YOU CAN DO THAT, but let guest services know at the beginning of a cruise.

Marseille old port panorama

Mar 06

Port of Call: Barcelona

Our next Port of Call Barcelona was also going to be the end of our Transatlantic cruise. Impulsive as we are, especially where it comes to travel, we looked at options to extend our cruise and found that a bunch of our newfound friends were continuing the ride from Barcelona into the Mediterranean; some were going to Rome and some even further to Athens. We looked at each other, kind of reminded each other that visiting the Greek Islands had been part of a Christmas or Anniversary promise and we went to see the cruise director to buy a 2 week cruise extension that would take us all the way to Athens, with a day stop in Istanbul. Oh yeah, we were living it up, and our next 6 months of working hospitality would be arriving soon enough, inspite of Covid and its dangers. (little did we know that the 2022 season would be the most intense one in the history of the Lodge).

Anyway, with another 14 days booked on the ship, we were not that interested in deeply diving into Barcelona’s belly on what looked like was going to be a rainy day. We were more interested in a smooth cabin transition, so we didn’t disembark until close 11am. Han knew the city quite well from his years in Europe – the last time he had been there was in 1998 – during an Iberian Peninsula monthlong vacation that included Lisbon and the Portuguese Algarve region and Spain’s Sevilla, Madrid, Valencia and Barcelona region. His take was that the city had become a bit too trendy and international and therefore also way too expensive.

Las Ramblas Port end with Columbus statue

But beyond that we have learned that a cruise should be enjoyed without pressure and trying to include a Port of Call’s total offering is pure lunacy – a bit like how Japanese visitors to Europe in the 1980s just came to take pictures. So we decided to just walk from the ship into the port and stroll  onto Las Ramblas. The monument to Christopher Columbus (Colon) – very visible from the docked cruise ship -, marks the foot of the southern most end of the Ramblas and therefore a useful landmark to find your bearings when walking toward La Rambla from your cruise ship.

The entire length of Las Ramblas to Plaça Catalunya is a bit over 2/3 of a mile. La(s) Rambla(s) runs through the heart of the city center of Barcelona and divides the Barri Gòtic and El Raval neighborhoods. There is plenty to see and do all within a few minutes walk of this mostly tree-lined boulevard. About half way to the right, directly opposite from the famous La Boqueria Market, you will find access roads that will take you to the Cathedral in the Gothic Quarters and the very lively Plaça Real with the popular fountain to sit around. Pedestrian roads to the left, coming up from the Port, will connect you to MACBA, the Museum of Contemporary Art of Barcelona, famous for the display of major contemporary artworks created in the last 50 years. Admission is about $14.

Within walking distance from Plaça Catalunya (5 minutes) you can connect to the Rambla de Catalunya which takes you to one of Antoni Gaudi’s famous architectural designs, that are spread all over Barcelona. La Pedrera, aka Casa Milà is one of his more livable designs and the website focused on this building shows all Gaudi in one place. Personally I think wandering the twisting lanes of the Gothic Quarter and Passeig de Gràcia is much more interesting than the commerciality of Las Ramblas. Also another nice street for strolling …similar to Las Ramblas but much less crowded.

Han enjoying a beer and cig on a sidewalk café on Las Ramblas
Las Ramblas drinking water fountain
Cristopher Columbus Statue and Memorial
Mercat (Mercado) La Boqueria on Lass Ramblas during aftermath of Covid
Mercado de Boqueria Fresh Fish market
Narrow Street in historic Gothic Quarters
Interior of the Cathedral off Las Ramblas
Catedral Interior with pond and swans
Plaça Real with water fountain off Las Ramblas
TJ on Las Ramblas enjoying a drink while people watching
Shopping and dining on Square off Las Ramblas
The always popular Las Ramblas Mercado

But if you are short on time in Barcelona, -like one day cruise ship stop days – either make Casa Batlló and Sagrada Familia your main Gaudí visits in Barcelona, or do what we did, because there is so much more to see and do in Barcelona.

If you do have the time, like two or three days, your must-see attractions include, but are not limited to: La Sagrada Família, Park Güell, Casa Batlló, La Rambla, the Gothic Quarter and the Magic Fountain of Montjuïc (make sure to take the funicular up). This fountain puts on a display of color, water, and music several nights a week, depending on the season. People who watch the show rave about it. The fountain will not run during drought conditions.

By 3pm we started our route back to the ship to find our new cabin. Unfortunately the mini-suite of the first two weeks was not available for our continuation, but at least we had a balcony. Our steward had re-moved all our belongings and moved them  to the new cabin. All good and excited we concluded our first 2 weeks of cruising!

The next two weeks would take us to Marseille, Genova, Civitavechia (Rome), Naples (Pompei), Crete, Kusadasi (Turkey), Mikonos, Istanbul and finally Athens.

Casa Batllo & Casa Amatller (chocolatier)
Casa Milà Barcelona - Antoni Gaudi
Casa Batllo architectural detail
Parc Guell - Designed by Antoni Gaudi
Sagrada Familia (Sacred Family) Antoni Gaudi design

Mar 05

Port of Call Málaga, Spain

The next port of call Málaga, had been on the menu for several days and finally the weather allowed us to anchor in the cruise port. It was still mostly overcast, but a visit to this summer tourist jewel is a must for its renaissance architecture, magnificent food culture, waterfront avenues and close proximity to the City of Granada and the world-famous Moorish Castle “The Alhambra”.

Just like Cadiz, Málaga was founded by the Phoenicians around 800 BC and later shaped by the Romans, who built the amphi-theatre that still stands today. The Moors arrived in the 8th century, leaving behind the Alcazaba fortress and Gibralfaro Castle that dominate the skyline. After the Christian Reconquest in 1487, grand churches and plazas were built.

Málaga’s history is evident throughout its streets, from ancient ruins to Moorish arches and Renaissance facades, there is over 2,800 years of fascinating settlement stories waiting to be explored. Just as most port cities, there is an air of acceptance and tolerance, created by centuries of exposure to human interactions.

It is the sixth-largest city in Spain and yet it doesn’t feel huge. One of the many pluses of Malaga is that you can explore most of its highlights on foot. Málaga Park, also known as Paseo del Parque, is the city’s green oasis and considered one of the most important subtropical gardens in Europe. Built in the late 19th century on land reclaimed from the sea, it was part of a project to expand the port. Planting began in 1899, and today the park covers 30,000 square metres with more than 350 plant species from five continents, from Mexican fan palms and Madagascan screwpines to Australian ficus trees. There is information on the flora for the green-fingered visitors!

The park isn’t just about nature. Scattered among its shaded paths are 19th-century fountains, sculptures, and monuments, like the Fountain of the Three Graces and the Nymph with a Seashell.

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Mar 03

Port of Call – Palma de Mallorca

Again there was a last minute change as future Port of Call – Palma de Mallorca was placed ahead of the Andalusian City of Malaga. Reason? The same storm system that had taken Gibraltar out of the line up, prevented us from going to Malaga. So, the Regal sailed north to the island of Mallorca and then returned south a day later to visit Pablo Picasso’s birthplace on the Costa del Sol.

Mallorca, the largest of the Balearic Islands, gave birth to Spain’s best tennis player ever Rafael Nadal and today hosts celebrities like Catharina Zeta-Jones and Michael Douglas, Brad Pitt who owns seasonally and many European celebrities. The island has a population of over 480,000 spread over about 1,400 square miles (about the size of Long Island), offering diverse landscapes from mountains to beaches. Even our Cuban friends  Juan and Acéla from Matanzas, whom we visited in 2017, have moved since to the island of Mallorca.

Palma de Mallorca

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Mar 02

Port of Call Cadiz, Spain

Cadiz, three sides on the Atlantic

The message from the Captain came the evening before, while departing Madeira: a weather system in the southwestern Mediterranean forced the ship to set course for Cadiz, rather than Malaga.

Perhaps because of its out-of-the-way location, Cadiz is a hidden gem that not everyone seems to know and visit, so we were happy with the change. Its historic old town and its many unique surrounding villages, make Cadiz a perfect destination for exploration. Gorgeous beaches, amazing local cuisine and an accessible city that is more than 3,000 years old, dating back to the Phoenician merchants from the Levant.

Located on Spain’s southwestern Atlantic coast, due west of Malaga in the Mediterranean, Cadiz played a significant role in Spain’s colonial history, serving as a launching point for expeditions to the New World.   The city itself is a coastal gem—rich in history, lined with golden beaches, and exuding a laid-back charm that feels worlds away from the tourist-heavy spots further east.

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