Nashville offers more than just BBQ

In-N-Out Burger in Lebanon,TN

After completing our last season as managers at the Beaver Island Lodge, we were exactly back where we were 10 years ago when I wrote the story “Wide Open Spaces Ahead of Us”. Our first trip then was also to Nashville, where Han’s oldest friend in the US had moved to.  Sadly Ric passed away a couple of years ago, so now we visited Kay his widow in Brentwood TN, a suburb of Nashville, for almost a month in Dec/Jan of 2026. This is also our last trip south in our trusty Nissan Murano which we purchased exactly 10 years ago. And the end of this trip she goes to another dear friend, while we take a transatlantic cruise over to Europe for an extended stay. But first some travel impressions from this last north-south trip.

There are so many amazing restaurants near her home, that we did not have to venture far to experience something new and delicious.
These are just “a few of our favorite things”.

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A Taste of London

The City of London from The Shard Office Building

 

The train from Southampton dropped us off at Victoria Station in London’s City of Westminster district. We had figured out that a 15 minute walk down Belgrave Rd would bring us to our hotel on Warwick Way. And it did, even with large suitcases down the sidewalk. But before we decided to check in, we needed a coffee and a cigarette. And the sunny outside café the Marquis of Westminster Pub and Restaurant on the corner of Warwick Way and Belgrave was the perfect place to do this: enjoying our favorite pastime of people watching over a drink and a cig. The place was so cool the we decided to have dinner there as well.

The Warwick by Nestor seemed like a nice, affordable little hotel located in the accessible heart of Westminster, but our room however was in the basement, after a climb down a dangerous wooden stair case. Very strange room in layout, but the location made it work for us.

The first full day of our stay we would be walking to world-famous department store Harrod’s on Knightsbridge and maybe have something to drink on Hans Road (?). Well the phenomenon that is Harrod’s distracted us for the better part of several hours, simply because there is nothing like it in the world to our knowledge. Although the old magnificent Harrod’s from the 1960s and 1970s is no more. What was once ONE STORE that had the entire world for sale is now more of an exhibition of the world’s foremost brandnames where you can order incredible luxury items: a 50.000 British pound speaker box or a 125,000 Pound model Ferrari, you can buy it here, choc.

Welcome to Harrod's; step into our Elevator
Have a delight at Hans Crescent
Harrod's Opulence on full display
A Hand-fitted riding saddle
A snake necklace for 165.000 British Pounds
Han in a Mini Cooper model for sale
A 125,000 Pounds Ferrari Testosterossa J Model
A $90,000 Bugatti model
More cars at Harrod's
Chocolates from around the world
A $90,000 home racing simulator
How about a $38,000 football ?
Interested in diamond studded shoes?
Harrod's Beauty and Food Halls
Dior's Corner of Harrod's
Love is a London Thing

After this bedazzling display of capitalistic insanity we set out on a trip to nearby Hyde Park to let it all sink in , followed by a quick walk to Fortnum and Mason past Hyde Park Corner and then via a stroll down Constitution Hill to Buckingham Palace where we watched the Royal Guard’s Band perform Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody in front of maybe 50,000 tourists from all over the world. And this was just early in April!!!

A short walk down the Mall to take some more pictures of important British Aristocratic statues, followed by a visit to the Buckingham Palace Gift Shop and from there a quick stop at famous British retailer Marks & Spencer, we wound our way back via Victoria to the Warwick neighborhood and hotel. Dinner choice was once again provided by the Marquis of Westminster neighborhood bar & restaurant. Our watch indicated an 18,000 plus step day and we were properly proud of ourselves as well as deeply tired to the bone.

The pedestrian crossing from the pub to our hotel
History all around you
A London street scene
Knightsbridge Station
A fullsize Rhino for display
Just a Tuesday on Knightsbridge
Hyde Park Playgrounds
The Duke of Wellington
Entrance to Buckingham Palace
Palace Guard Playing Bohemian Rhapsody
The famous Victoria Memorial
Magnificent, delicious pub food at the Marquis

Our second day in London offered a wider visitor view of the city via a Hop On Hop Off bus tour, which also included a sail on the Thames River for past the Tower Bridge in the north to past the Vauxhall Bridge in the south. Usually we do a Hop On Hop Off Tour on our first day, so we can define which places to visit the next two or three days, but this time we figured the first day was for all attractions in the Westminster area. Of course a city like London has a least 5 or 6 different Hop On Hop Off offerings. Our selection stayed close to the Thames River, as we wanted to see the parts of London that defined the British Empire during its heyday, and that included Houses of Parliament, the Tower of London and the Tower Bridge with the Docks, Fleet Street, the London Stock Exchange, the Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Trafalgar Square, Waterloo Square and all the institutions that once controlled more than one quart of all the world’s land.

We picked up the Hop On at Victoria Station and were taken immediately across the Westminster Bridge for a closer look at the London Eye. Since it had only been there since the turn of the century, Han had not seen it either. The London Eye, originally the Millennium Wheel, is the world’s tallest cantilevered observation wheel, with more than three million visitors annually.  The structure is 135 metres (443 ft) tall and the wheel has a diameter of 120 metres (394 ft). The Eye was the highest public viewing point in London until 2013, when it was surpassed by the 245-meter (804 ft) View from The Shard observation deck. The capsules are designed to move slowly with the wheel, completing one full rotation in about 30 minutes, which allows passengers to board and disembark without the wheel stopping. The 32 capsules not only serve a functional purpose but also symbolically represent each of London’s boroughs, making the ride both an engineering marvel and a cultural icon. There are 32 Capsules but none carries Number 13. Long live superstition. The Millennial Wheel moves in a continuum, traveling at a pace of 0.9km per hour, allowing passengers to board and hop off without the wheel ever needing to come to a complete stop.

On our continuing trip on the Southside of the river, it became clear that most of the important developments in London over the past 50 years have been south of the City of London and the Thames River. As the bus crawls eastward past the London Bridge to the Tower Bridge, we witness the enormous traffic congestion causing frequent long stops. Finally we make it to the Tower Bridge which we take to the Tower of London on the northern river embankment. Behind the Tower hotel are the famous St.Katherine’s Docks where in historic times clipper ships like the Cutty Shark and Thermopylae found their anchorage after completing heated tea races from China in the 1800s.

At the Tower of London stop we get off the bus for a drink and a short walk to the river cruise boats, while London’s music scene awakes on the squares. London has a vibrant busking scene, with talented musicians performing in iconic, high-traffic areas like here near the Tower Bridge Piazza and the Royal Menagerie. while we enjoy the music, we’ll watch the Tower’s Royal Mint entrance with the Traitor’s Gate behind it and reminisce about the bygone eras of Victorian and Elizabethan conquering.

Then it’s time to go aboard the river sightseeing boat and yes, it’s a must do tour to see London from the water. A completely different perspective, one not filled with thousands of tourists. You see the architectural wonders of the Gherkin office building in the financial district that keeps on showing up in pictures and the Shard Building which offers the highest viewing/photo platform in London these days. You learn the history of the many bridges over the Thames, the Monument of the great London Fire and so much more. And then of course you’ll get an unobstructed view of the Houses of Parliament as well. We decided to take both legs of the water sightseeing tour which got us back to the Tower of London area for continuation by Hop On Hop Off bus. we completed the loop which slowly took us down to the Victoria Station by the end of the day.

The sun had been setting on the British Empire for a while now, but it was still impressive to witness what it once was.

Egg or Gherkin, you'll be the judge!
City of London from Tower Bridge south access
The Tower Bridge from the Thames
St.Katherine's Docks
London Tower
Early Spring day in London
London Busking
The Royal Courts of Justice
Big Ben and Houses of Parliament Gardens
Cities like London are always under construction
Westminster Abbey
London Apollo Victoria
London Victoria Palace
London pub interior

A quick walk down the Westminster street scenes took us back to the hotel where we started packing for our next day departure by bus to Stansted Airport 31 miles to the north of the city from where Ryanair would fly us to Eindhoven in the Netherlands for our last 10 days of family visits and a trip to the Tulip Festival at the Keukenhof near Amsterdam.

In two full days of London, we did exactly what we had set out to do: see a number of the historic sites and walk the inner city for some local flavor. London is witness of the British former empire,  in statues and a multi national diverse population. This is not so much apparent in places like Devon, Cornwall or the Lake District. But it definitely shows in the big cities. We will be back for more later. 

 

Long awaited dream of visiting Seaton Village in the UK

Beer Head Bistro English Breakfast

Our transatlantic Princess cruise 2025 intentionally ended in Southampton UK, as it was about a two hour drive from my long awaited dream of visiting Seaton Village in the UK.

Caught a taxi to the airport to pick up our rental car, which I was not on board about but Han really wanted the car. Literally to make a long horrific scary story short, unless you are extremely familiar with driving on the left, dealing with UK traffic, huge roundabouts, teeny tiny country roads or enjoy arguing with your mate…leave the rental car and take any other means of transportation. We visited Seaton for a week and I never got back in, until we had to return the car. It will try the best of relationships.

A total driving adjustment is required.

I, for obvious reasons, chose to stay at Seaton Hotel by Premier Inn.

The staff was very nice and said I was the first “Seaton” that they could remember ever staying there. Close to town, a large grocery store “Tesco” next door, a rocky beach with massive boardwalk was just across the street, unique restaurants within a short walk and charming homes for as far as you could see. The hotel has a restaurant attached, but they were forever running out of multiple menu items.

Totally frowned upon the fact that you have to pay for parking and wifi at the hotel, which was very pricey.

Hotel is nothing fancy, but it met our needs and was fairly quiet. All in all, it was an enjoyable and comfortable stay. 

For being off-season there were many stores and restaurants open, but then again the weather was unusually pleasant for the time of year.

We strolled through a few cemeteries because history fascinates me, but I was also hoping to glimpse some Seaton family graves, however we did not locate any. I did purchase my share of “Seaton” tourist goodies however.

The resale stores there are surprisingly easy on the wallet. It has many cute parks for people/dog watching. One feels very at home almost immediately.

Our friends David and Glenda with whom we met in Portugal Jan. of 2020 lived close by. We had a wonderful opportunity to spend more quality time with them. They drove us to neighboring towns of Beer and Sidmouth the day after our arrival. I sat in the back seat and covered my eyes a lot. Just when you think a road cannot get any skinnier, they do.

We had the largest most fantastic breakfast EVER at unassuming Beer Head Bistro. It is located on the Jurassic Coastline and set in a caravan vacation park. We needed nothing else until dinnertime, better yet, we were full.. The inside decor of the restaurant is beyond charming. This was my first experience eating a “full English breakfast” with many more in my future.

Next stop was Sidmouth. I had more energy than the other three, so I set off to do a bit of shopping, beach rock/boardwalk inspections, take photos and revel in the architecture. Sidmouth has a lot of sights to offer and I could have spent at least a week here also. Joined the rest of the crew to have some espresso, people watch and admire all the doggies parading in the sunshine. People in the UK have a lot of dogs and majority of stores welcome them along with their owners.
 
After a long wait we're almost there...
not much room to play with
Activity overload promised
Seaton - an Ancestry Away?
Glenda in anticipation of English Breakfast
David, English oak at its very best
As you want it interior decorations
Shopping street in town
Walking the waterfront, everyone's favorite pastime
Faulkner Hotel to the left!
Seaton downtown intersection
England's sense of colorful living. You've got to love it.
 

Seaton has a tramway from the olden days that still runs through the wetlands and stops in some small villages to the north. It was one of the highlights of our stay in Seaton. With it being off season, quite a few places were closed in each village, but still enough open and architecture to enjoy. Had a sweet treat and coffee in a locals restaurant. The vibe was very chill and welcoming, with everyone chatting to each other and a cute dog relaxing underneath one of the tables.

Dogs are also welcome in most restaurants in the UK. They have figured out that dogs are less problematic and cleaner than many humans.

There is so much history and information about the tram, that I suggest you click on the link to see it all. Wear comfortable walking shoes and use a walking stick or cane if you have trouble traversing hills.

David and Glenda came by again to be our driver and tour guides of beautiful, fascinating Lyme Regis.

So very thankful for their friendship. Also for driving.

Regis, a World Heritage Site, is by far the steepest small town I have experienced. Today on the menu was Swim Restaurant for breakfast. Beautiful location on the water, extremely nice staff, high reviews and so forth, but we were all underwhelmed with the breakfast. I could not help but compare it to my first experience of the English breakfast in Beer (see above picture). Personally it was one and done for me. However, all four of us felt similar about it.

Back to checking out Regis… As Han, David and Glenda decided to relax on the seafront boardwalk having coffee, I had the bright idea of climbing the stairs from the boardwalk to the top of the village. I admit when I am wrong and I was out of my mind wrong about this. I lost count of the stair steps or even how many times I had to catch my breath. At first it is a zig-zag walkable incline, then steps that shoot up into the wild blue yonder. Just when you think you are at the top: nope, you have a very steep zig-zag path to continue the workout. Thanking whoever put random benches to rest before continuing. Once you are at the top, the world feels like it unfurls at your feet and I couldn’t believe I made it without calling for medical assistance. This is no exaggeration either. Then I started my descent to find the rest of the crew. I felt like I had run a marathon by the time I found them relaxing on a bench like smart people.

Another incredible day spent with lovely friends.

TJ's little trick or treats
Searching for historic Seaton's
cemeteries and graveyards; where history becomes heavy
A church hiding among houses
Religeous color schemes
A Typical English Waterfront Look
Some strangely disturbing door ornaments
Any room can serve a great afternoon tea
Spend a day in the book/record store
British humor: tempus fugit amor manet
A scene in Devon on the Water
A great Chinese Restaurant in Seaton Village
All roads lead to Rome?
Life used to be so simple
The horse does not agree with the sign
Life portrays colorful in this part of the world

With the choice to drive back to Southampton on Sunday or Monday, we decided to drive at ease on Sunday, rather than in Monday morning workweek traffic. Why put yourself under pressure? The trip back to Southampton was not as horrifying but we were very glad to turn the car in. Of course that was until they tried to rip us off, and tell us we stole the boot out of the back that covers the luggage area. We were not even aware there was not one originally in the car. They were just trying to find a sucker to blame it on. It didn’t fly and we were not charged. Besides that, we had purchased insurance. Also the car rental airport crew are completely lacking in manners. Not to go into details, but we were not the only ones whose return process started off negatively.

Note: Don’t rent from Avis or Budget, they are in same building with same workers.

Next stop is LONDON.

Intended Port of Call: La Coruña

La Coruña Peninsula and city

La Coruña was the intended and much anticipated Port of Call in northern Spain’s Galicia region. Because of ongoing bad weather patterns during this cruise we could not make a daylong stop there and everything was cut short to a quick stop in the foggy cruise port to offload some passengers and a crew of entertainers and interestingly enough upload a handful of British Immigration officers to check on our new stamps and facilitate an easy ETA Visa entry in the United Kingdom.. Our anticipation had been an access to the popular Camino de Santiago de Compostela, a little bit to the south of La Coruña.

The Camino (pilgrimage) started in the early 9th century after mysticism and legend put Jesus’ apostle St. James’s gravesite in Galicia. The cathedral build in Santiago (which in Spanish means St.James) became the focus point of many different caminos in the 12 centuries since, gaining in popularity in recent years.

Our more in-depth research will probably have to wait until we decide to “settle” in the Northern Portugal area, because this time for us it was on to Southampton, where the cruise ends and our British discovery adventure begins.

Port of Call: Casablanca – Morocco

Ibrahim, our guide in Casablanca’s Ancient Medina

Port of Call Casablanca, Morocco: “Here’s looking at you, Kid”

No we didn’t visit Rick’s Café Americain, famous from the 1942 Hollywood movie Casablanca with Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Even though the café is located close to the cruise docks, the café did not open until more than 60 years later in 2004 and is clearly just an effort to capitalize on the famous movie, which by the way was almost in its entirety filmed in Burbank, California, using archive shots of Casablanca for flavor. Even though an admirable effort to be authentic, the entire café operation is essential a Hollywood inspired advertisement. Nothing even remotely comparable to the authenticity of “La Bodeguita del Medio” in Havana Cuba.

Casablanca, chaos and attraction

Casablanca has seen an explosive growth since the port was built 120 years ago. Today Metropolitan Casablanca houses more than 4.3 million people! Compare that to a mere 20,000 in 1900 before the port was built. As a result there is some chaos in the infrastructural picture you may want to take into consideration. Which is why we took it easy again.

Our choices for this Port of Call were a couple of Cruiseline organized bus tours to faraway destinations such as the capital city Rabat to the north or a 4 hour trip each way to Marrakesh, on  the edge of the Sahara desert. Now both of these cities are worth a visit, but sitting in a bus for hours was not our idea of fun so our sights were set on the Ancient Medina (the centuries old covered marketplace almost next to the cruise arrival dock) and if time allowed, a stroll down Casablanca’s Corniche to the Mosque  Hassan II.

Even though our visiting targets were in walking distance from the cruise ship dock, we took the courtesy bus that would take us to a central point in town, primarily because we needed a McDonalds for some Wifi and a bank to exchange some money. TJ had asked many of our friends and family where they would like to receive a souvenir/gift from and Casablanca came out as the absolute most desirable destination. Hence we needed some Dirhams to be able to “negotiate” prices. (It’s a must if you want Moroccons to respect you).

45 Minutes on the second floor of McDonalds, distracted by the excitement of two young children and their mother, apparently eating for the first time in a Micky D, informed us that everything on the Homefront was under control and we left. Across the street was a bank exchange ATM and we exchanged a good amount of dollars into Dirhams. Always use a bank ATM to exchange, the exchange is better and the service cost much less.

Ancient Medina of Casablanca

Ancient Medina

Coming out of the bank, we ask for directions to the “Souk” and a smiling Moroccan answer points right across the street to a kind of hidden entrance in a big wall. Life is easy in Morocco, about to get easier.

We enter the Ancient Medina and a young guy, young as in his thirties, walks up to us and welcomes us to the Medina. His name is Ibrahim (Abraham in Hebrew) and he introduces himself as the “mayor” of the Ancient Medina. He was born there and still lives inside the ancient walls, and his English is great. Done with the introductions, Ibrahim shows us his store and tells us a little about the Souk’s history. Though lacking the medieval magic (due to the Lisbon earthquake in 1755) that characterizes other Moroccan medinas, Casablanca’s compact 19th-century example is still very much worth a wander. You’re unlikely to find real treasures in its everyday shops (hardware stores, pharmacies and shops selling cheap clothing, shoes and spices ), but its whitewashed crooked lanes, occasional tree-shaded square and buzzy local cafes make it a popular route for those walking between downtown Casablanca and the Hassan II Mosque.

Ibrahim who introduced us to many shopkeepers, told us that less than a week earlier, American actors John Cena and Jessica Biel were spotted filming action scenes for the Apple movie Matchbox in the Medina and areas like Derb Omar, to be released on October 9, 2026.

Ibrahim's store is immediately to the left.
Don't judge...having a shower 100 years ago was rare
Treasures? Maybe if you look real hard.
Fresh Fish market Catch of the Day?
Beautiful details all around. The medina teaches
New Life next to a smoking warning
Making bread like centuries ago
Ibrahim patiently showing us around
Gorgeous shop interiors
Casablanca has the largest Hebrew community in Morocco
Fresh, organic eggs in ancient medina
Free music teaching in the souk

At one point Han, who had some problems with the very uneven pavements consisting of cobblestones and wildly place concrete tiles, took out several racks of clothing when he was tripped by 2 local women unaware and suddenly crossing his path. He went down with some scrapings on his hands. Ibrahim and a very concerned older Imam, guided him to a hidden bathroom, took care of his bloody hands and guided us to a restaurant hidden in the Medina, named Dar El Kaid. It is here where we learned about the flavors of local cuisine. This funky old school Moroccan joint is #1 in the city on TripAdvisor for one reason only: Both the food and the atmosphere are on point, and if you’re looking for a fancy Moroccan meal in Casablanca, we would recommend Dar El Kaid. Han had a flavorful lamb dish slow-cooked with spices and served with couscous and TJ had a Kebab Magdour: Grilled meat skewers seasoned with traditional spices, offering a taste of Moroccan street food. We took quite a few pictures of the fascinating interior and when we walked out there was Ibrahim, waiting for us to continue his tour. We bought souvenirs, spices, t-shirts and other memorabilia for friends and family and when we had walked by hundreds of stores and visited dozens of them.

Dar El Kaid Menu Cover
Heart Art
Part of the interior of Dar el Kaid
Now that is Bread
Han, ready to enjoy a magnificent lunch
Incredibly good Casablanca food
The detail looking up!

The Mecca Laser beam

By late afternoon we properly compensated Ibrahim for his marvelous attention and guidance and walked back to the bus stop where we would be picked up for a return to the ship. It was a great day with lots of local color even though we had not made it to the famous Mosque.

But… that evening from the deck of the ship we witnessed the green Laser Beam coming from the top of the 210 meter (689ft) high Minaret tower of the Hassan II Mosque, that reportedly is beamed directly to the city of Mecca. Quite impressive.

 

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