The Convoy has arrived at its destination
NOTE: We both, Han and TJ, wrote this as one story, so if the writing appears back and forth as first and second person lingo, this is the reason. Most of the time, it sounds if Han wrote it all and that is fine too. Our main goal was to get the story out there for our friends and to gain interest in this amazing endeavor.
This Jeeps for Peace Convoy to Ukraine was the 16th trip the organization undertook, having delivered a total of 700 vehicles so far since Russia attacked Ukraine on Feb 24, 2022.,
April 23, the Jeeps for Peace adventure begins. Going back to March 3rd on Amelia Island, old friend Robert Peters dropped by to quickly visit us at our friends Jack and Sharon’s home to say goodbye to us before our European adventures kick in. During our conversation he brings up Jeeps 4 Peace, an initiative from some guys he knows, that brings vehicles to Ukraine in a convoy. He says he signed up for the next one starting April 23, leaving Edinburgh, Scotland. Enthusiasm for this idea quickly surged through us and we were mentally committed to sign up as well. There’s one caveat, this is a volunteer driven charity and we are supposed to pay for our participation, which includes hotels, ferry and food as well as all the diesel for the vehicles we drive. An estimated $1,800 per person, $2,500 if you include airline tickets from the US. For two people just retiring on a fixed budget, this was a pretty steep amount. However, TJ was adamant about doing this, so she gets busy with contacting the American Jeeps For Peace liaison and sets up a “Go Fund Me” account. Even though the contributions did only cover about half of our trip, it ultimately made it possible for us to participate.
We’re to drive 33 vehicles (lots loaded with additional supplies) in convoy from Edinburgh, Scotland to Kolomiya, Ukraine, south-east of Lviv, a total distance of just over 2,500km. The instruction is to meet up at the Petrol Station at the Cameron Toll Shopping Centre, where all cars will be assigned and fueled and the convoy will leave Edinburgh for a 420km trip to the P&O Ferry dock in Hull. What immediately caught us was the fact that all volunteers in this convoy were between 50 and 85 years of age. The first two we met that morning were George and Bob. George was 85 and he humorously mentioned that he couldn’t walk or stand very long, but he could drive a vehiclel. As cars appeared, more participants arrived as well. A nice group of people, committed to helping Ukraine survive. The trucks were all decorated with posters depicting a Ukrainian hero and close friend who had lost his life late last December, to save his comrades on the frontlines of the war. His name was Serhiy Daniuk. He sadly left behind a young wife and two young sons.
TJ: Having previous experience with Han driving a British car on a British Road, created some panic for me, so I began inquiring about an experienced driver in the convoy to ride with, rather than us possibly arguing all the way to Hull. I found one of the organizers, Vasyl (who is Ukrainian and lives there), to drive with on the first lap, Han was matched up with our friend Robert Peters. The truck was a Ford Ranger WildTrak, which was previously owned and operated by a professional dog walking company Ruff and Ramble.
By 11:30am all cars were finally fueled and drivers appointed to get on the road.
Han’s experience: Properly briefed at the morning meeting and truck fueled ($150) the first leg of 420 km was a lot easier than anticipated, because I could just follow a car that had done this trip quite a few times before. No confusion at roundabout exits or passing lanes. It turned out to be a lot easier than expected and we made the ferry to Rotterdam within surprises and plenty of time to spare.
TJ’s experience: Thank goodness for Vasyl, who has been with the Jeeps For Peace from the beginning, and is extremely knowledgeable about vehicles. We loaded up two other drivers, which we dropped off to pick up another vehicle waiting at a car park on the way. He was glad I was with him, so he could practice his English. We had a great time and he invited us to visit he and his family in Ukraine.
The initial gang in Hull, England (others were joining in Rotterdam)
The P&O ferry, which has three large car decks, one for 18 wheelers, sails overnight, serve a cruise ship like quality buffet dinner and offers small cabins for the overnight sleep. The 12 hour trip costs including car about $300 per person. Interesting at night is that sailing through this part of the North Sea, it is almost like sailing in daylight. Hundreds of ships in and out of Rotterdam cross the area, while at least a dozen oil platforms operate in the area. Quite fascinating. Breakfast in the morning is as elaborate as on a cruise ship, and by 9am we are notified to locate our vehicles and get ready to disembark. Then the waiting begins at customs and immigration in the Port of Rotterdam. Anyone doing this, should not forget Brexit. It used to be easy to enter the European Union or more precise the Schengen participants, because the UK was part of the European Union. That not being the case anymore, you now need finger prints and pictures taken every time you cross the border. Although the border official in Rotterdam told us pictures were only needed once every two years, reality is that so far it has happened at every border crossing.
TJ: Each vehicle has to have a UK sticker for customs, and you can purchase those on the ferry, which I did. They have quite a few stores on the ferry and even a casino. While Han was awake noticing all the water traffic through the night, I slept like a baby and saw nothing but the back of my eyelids. Breakfast looked great, but not being an early breakfast person, I had to make myself eat.
Convoy in Honor and Memory of Serhiy Daniuk
TJ and our appointed truck
Han and Robert Peters ready for take off to Hull
Almost ready for Take Off from Edinburgh
Convoy has arrived in Hull before going on ferry
Organizers Stewart and Adam giving instructions
Arrived in Port of Hull; up to Rotterdam
Convoy meticulously parked on ferry
TJ and Vasyl, friends with a cause
April 24 – Rotterdam to Leipzig
Coming off the ferry
After all the border procedures and delays in Rotterdam (why did the UK exit the EU again?), a quick instructional meeting for the group is scheduled, addresses for pin drops and off we go. Arrival target for the evening is Albanian family Shtjefni owned hotel Jamas just east of the city of Leipzig, a good 700km distance and a hard task on a Friday with loads of traffic jams, in addition to many roadwork sites. First we filled up the gas tank, while maneuvering over the busy Friday morning side streets of Rotterdam. TJ and I are again in charge of the vehicle and we decide that I take the wheel to the first meeting point just past Hanover in Germany. Robert Peters and his friend/co-driver Andy follow us to a gas station in Rotterdam’s suburbs, but soon lose us because of traffic. At the station we lose another half hour figuring out the gas station’s policy, since there are two buttons for diesel fuel; one works for normal cars (very slow) and one for trucks and lorries (high pressure speed). An extra scare is the diesel price of $2.75 per liter which translates to $10.45 per gallon. Finally back on the road, we’re finding the right direction heading east towards Germany. Crossing the Netherlands west to east under “normal” circumstances takes about 90 minutes. On this Friday it takes us about 4 hours.
TJ: Robert and Andy were following us, but after fueling up, we lost them somewhere along the way. Normally each vehicle is just doing its own thing and making sure to regularly update your pin location. Too slow and difficult to stay intact with so many vehicles, especially in Friday traffic.
Hotel Jamas near Leipzig/Machern
Hotel Entrance
Interior at hotel
At about 3:30pm we finally arrive at the meeting point near Hannover Germany, from where TJ takes over the wheel. Her first time driving in Europe, on the German autobahn, in a truck that is laid out totally opposite from what she is used to. Guess what? She loves it and never handed the wheel back. She vows that her next car will be a British built one with the steering wheel on the right hand side. We arrived at the hotel at about 8:30 that night, had dinner with the group and slept a good night’s rest. It was the first time in years we had driven more than 11 hours at a time and the next day promised to be even more challenging all the way through Poland, arriving close to the Ukrainian border. The hotel was perfect including the staff of family. The only thing missing was a few more hours of needed sleep. LOL
April 25 – Leipzig to Ukraine Border
Day Three
The day was pretty much a repeat of the day before, except for the fact that the German language changed into Polish. Since Germany and Poland are both members of the European Union, there were no border facilities or procedures, so that saved a good bit of time as we passed cities like Dresden, Katowice and Krakau, approaching the Ukraine border by late afternoon.
During a gas station stop in the early afternoon we ran into a couple of platoons of American soldiers with a Convoy of trucks and equipment that blocked an entire parking area. We were not allowed to access the area as it was cordoned off and the American soldiers, presumably part of a NATO detachment, were reluctant to enter into a conversation with us.
TJ: We stopped at one of the pin drops for a quick bite of lunch. I met a woman from Ukraine (who lives there), but is also involved in bringing cars back to her country. She was lovely and we conversed via google translate. I lost count of how many times we hugged, took pics with both of us tearing up. She was so appreciative of our efforts. Somehow, that meeting gave me so much strength and made me brazen enough to kick that truck up between 90 to 95 mph and sailed on down the road.
My next car needs to be British made. The right hand steering wheel makes so much more sense and felt completely normal, almost immediately. Thank goodness we were lucky enough to have an automatic though. Shifting with my left hand would have been difficult.
Some 830 kilometers (500 Miles), as hour after hour passed and we occasionally overtook another convoy car, truck or ambulance, we arrived at the hotel around 6:30pm. All the while TJ’s phone kept pinging when someone else in the convoy dropped a pin, and we learned of irregular breakdowns of vehicles. Whenever one broke down or overheated, Vasyl and his magical tool was sent in their direction where he connected the tool to the truck’s computer, reset it and the truck moved again. The team also warned us to check tires and oil every morning and possibly during a gas station stops, reminding us that many of these trucks were older and intensely used before being purchased or donated for frontline duty in Ukraine’s war. Loaded with this warning I wondered how long our truck could hold out TJ’s pedal to the metal approach of 90+ mph.
Loaded with Supplies for Ukraine
After arriving at the Dwor Kresovy hotel in Radymno, some of the guys started filling up our covered truck bed with a pallet of biscuits, suitcases of hospital equipment, diapers and much more that had to be offloaded from the small trailers. Turned out that full trailers were not allowed to cross the borders. So the last day of our mission, our truck was going to have another several hundred pounds of freight to pull. No problem. We were confident that the truck would do fine. We didn’t get to see much of Poland except sceneries that are normal on highways. Mostly boring and city names in Polish that are unpronounceable if you grew up in a language where 4 or 5 consecutive consonants in a word would be considered vocal torture . Try saying something like chrząszcz (which translates to beetle) and you know what I mean.
TJ: I don’t remember much of the road trip, as my mind was extremely mission focused and on driving. Definitely no sightseeing was happening on my end. Pedal to the metal, and we were the 3rd vehicle to arrive that evening. Was still a long, long day.
I cannot believe how much stuff they were able to load in the back bed and backseat of our truck. Someone definitely knew how to play Tetris.
This hotel and food left me completely unimpressed, as it did many others in the group. Most likely it won’t be booked for future convoys. I will just leave it at that.
After discovering that right hand side is her favorite
Sunday April 26 – Ukraine Border to Kolomyia
Slava Ukraine
Today is the day we deliver the trucks to the Ukrainians. A day full of surprises. Since we spent the night in a hotel maybe 30 minutes from the Ukrainian border, we had figured it to be a short day. Well this is of course the part where you don’t want to be predictable for anyone tracking your moves, such as possibly some overzealous Russians with drones. After all you’re delivering vehicles to the Ukrainian military to assist them in their fight against the aggressor Russia. Repetitive maneuvers could draw attention and last minute changes in plans throw the enemy off. Volunteers like us listen to the organizers with experience and if they say no live pictures and disconnect certain apps on your phone, you don’t squabble. You just do it. No publishing on social media during certain phases of the action, is also a smart advice. Reality sets in and all at once you realize this is not a vacation.
So our day starts with a quick breakfast, during which we learn that it is going to be a very long day that leads 36 km north to a border crossing, a long, long wait at the border and then a 4.5 hour long, almost 300 km trek south east to the city of Kolomyia, closer to the Rumanian border over very bad potholed roads. And when we say potholes we sometimes mean sinkholes of the size that can completely destroy or swallow a car, if hit on straight. We saw buses and 18 wheeler trucks zig zag across the complete width of the roads to avoid them. Some areas were so bad, there was no way to avoid them, except for slowing down to almost zero speed and just crawl through them. It may have been the reason our car started developing some problems near the village of Kalush. She stopped accelerating. Push on the gas pedal and the truck lost power. Vasyl was called to the rescue. But in order to be rescued we needed to get off the route initially projected. We ended up in a small village at an intersection where we could park the car and make plans on how to go from here. TJ had to pee, but since there were no facilities, she had to go behind a building with her held up long coat covering the view. About an hour later Vasyl arrived with his magic box and reset the engine. It was decided that two other trucks would sandwich us to make sure we were OK. Our Wildtrak was operating fine again, but a little while later one of our “sandwich” trucks broke down and the other one decided to stay with them and let us go ahead. We would not see them again until later that evening at the marketplace in Kolomyia. The 3 day race to the Ukraine was beginning to leave its victims short term stranded.
TJ: Going to leave Han’s story as is because I find it interesting that we experienced slightly different versions. (No worries about me doing live camera. I don’t use it ever, as it annoys me.)
Once we arrived at the border of Poland and Ukraine, it really took a very long time for them to approve everything. We had to wait for the guys with trailers because once we crossed over, we had to meet up and they along with some soldiers, transferred everything back into the trailers. While waiting we took the time for some photo ops. Was not going to pass that opportunity up. Then we ended up out in the middle of nowhere with me needing a bathroom. Nature called, nature delivered. One of my convoy comrades held my coat in front of me, but the dang wind was whipping it all around, so modesty was forgotten. Then I quickly put the coat back on because it was COLD in Ukraine.
I couldn’t help but notice while driving, the many beautiful places of worship we passed. Greek Orthodox churches, I have never seen anything like them before.
After the guys left to deliver the supplies taken from our truck farther north, we were to convoy up with Marina. (A Ukrainian woman who is now part of the organization and who now lives in Scotland.)
Well our truck decided it did not like going slow, it did not like experiencing playing real life Mario Cart and I could have done without that part too. OMG, the roads!
Everyone weaving in, out and across the road, trying to miss the definitely “tire popping holes” or worse. The truck finally said it needed a rest. Lost all power, barely had time to pull over on shoulder before it just stopped. Dropped a pin and could do nothing else but wait for Vasyl and his computer machine. Marina is one of the admins and had to continue on.
While waiting, two of our previous comrades (when onloading trailers), caught back up with us and we all waited for him together. Vasyl’s magic touch and we were on the road again. We three stuck together for a while, then Richard’s truck slowed down to limping it to the finish line. Brian stayed behind to wait up and we continued on by ourselves. People always ask if we were nervous, due to our location and being by ourselves. Honestly, I think we were too tired to even think about it.
We continued driving for several hours more through totally uncovered GPS neighborhoods, wondering where we were, until we finally reached the main road to Kolomyia again as we saw two other Jeeps for Peace trucks. We stuck to them like glue until we drove onto the square in our final destination Kolomyia.
Here we had to take all our belongings out of our truck, line up for a groups picture and handed the car keys over to the locals.
Stewart checking his convoy
The entire truck is loaded
Polish-Ukraine border ahead of us
I see a line of cars, not always painted black
A long snake of cars ready to be delivered
Greek Orthodox Churches in Ukraine
T-Mobile welcome to Ukraine
Signed, Sealed, Delivered
A bus was there to take us all to The Hotel and restaurant – Kolyba “U Vuyka Vasylya” for the evening’s planned dinner, festivities and introductions.
The display of local delicacies on the dinner tables was bewildering as convoy members and local charity stakeholders congregated in the huge dining room. Speakers preceded a variety of local singers, dancers, art performing children and musicians who delivered a magical evening for us, as many of the drivers slowly descended into an alcohol induced sleep rhythm. TJ has made friends with the hotel cat, who acts like a dog, sits in her lap and wants to be cuddled and scratched.
It had been a good ride all the way from Edinburgh and 32 out of 33 cars made it to the endpoint. The one missing will be fixed and arrive later.
As the flow of well deserved alcohol consumption takes over the festivities, we climbed the stairs to the 3rd floor where we enjoyed a good night’s rest.
Tomorrow we will see the warehouse where cars and goods will be transformed, repaired and administered and dispersed. And from there the bus will take us to the hotel in Lviv to finish up the 16th Convoy program.
TJ: Han covered most of our day above, but I admittedly had a fairly good amount of Tequila that evening, which I considered medicinal at that point, while the remainder of our comrades drank the many bottles of Vodka which also lined the scrumptious banquet they had prepared for us. I enjoyed the youngsters who preformed dancing and singing solos the most. I took many videos. Children can always cheer one up.
Met many soldiers, wives and families. All very welcoming and joyful to meet us. Most people stayed up much longer than we did. That room on the 3rd floor just about got the better of me.
Kolomyia as the party starts
Kolomyia discussions for the future
Kolomyia, the trucks are delivered
Happy Father, happy husband
Kolomyia exchanges of gratitudes
Spring Dance for the guests
Kolomyia: dancing attractions
Kolomyia: Beautiful voices and people
Girls in Ukraine sing English pop hits
Some cat behave more like dogs
Monday April 27 – Kolomyia to Lviv
TJ with our Wildtrak
Han: We woke up to a glorious morning and after breakfast the bus took off for the warehouse somewhere on the outskirts of town, where we would glimpse a quick overview of the next steps in this carefully orchestrated process of helping Ukraine regain its peace from Russian aggression. Our group was pretty much intact as only 3 participants had journeyed back to Poland after delivering the trucks the night before. In the course of three days, we have become much closer with a bunch of the participants, some of whom seem to have made it their life’s task to help Ukraine in many different ways. They actually spend weeks or even months at a time over there to deliver goods and help with logistics and donations. They travel back and forth between Lviv and Kyiv and sometimes the front lines. Mostly their motives are as simple as empathy and altruism and some carry a deep rage and anger against the Russian aggression and merciless killing that has been exposed. As we arrive at the warehouse complex, an old communist era manufacturing building in an old, greasy part of town, we come to enjoy the Ukrainian Spirit, which reminded us a lot of the Cuban spirit. They have learned to create, recreate, adjust and repair with whatever means is available. The warehouse apparently is Vasyl’s domain. It’s where his business was located before the war was sprung upon them in February 2022. Here is where now trucks are repaired and made ready for frontline service/action. Here is where donated supplies are registered, administered and distributed to whomever needs it most. We are the recipients of several speeches from military and organizers, thanking us for our contributions, which are minimal compared to what is needed. But we are grateful for the recognition as they share with us experiences and show us relics of the war (drones, uniforms, blown up trucks etc).
TJ, who in the past has shown undeniable spiritual powers, is blessing the truck we drove there, and the Ukrainian driver who delivers vehicles to the frontlines, is visibly touched by her blessings, saying he is claiming that truck.
TJ: Walking into the warehouse is on a whole new level of solemness and reality as you gaze upon the scenes of what drones do to the vehicles, along with the people inside them. To know that no one could have lived through the damage you see. They keep the damaged vehicles to disassemble them and use whatever parts are still viable. It is all a huge undertaking and process, but this only proves the Ukraines resilience in challenges and spirit. I held a Russian death drone, at the encouragement of a soldier, which instantly enraged me into giving it my middle finger when having my photo taken.
This is what encouraged me to be overcome with all the feels, and give every ounce of my own personal version of ju-ju on the truck. I actually did not give it a thought what others might think of what I was doing, as strange as it sounds, but I felt all disappear except for me and the truck in this moment. My only thought was hoping to give something positive to keep the soldiers in the truck safe. By the time I was finished, I was literally overwrought with emotion, that I laid over the truck hood and cried until I could collect myself. I know that sounds overly dramatic, but it truly was the case. Truth be known, even Han thought I might have lost it a bit.
(It has taken me a long time in writing the remainder of this mission trip, as I sit here once again sobbing, like it was yesterday happening all over. If I feel this way, it is a piece of sand in the ocean to what Ukrainians are going through. My heart goes out to them so very much.)
Afterwards, a young soldier asked me about what I was doing. I explained and he instantly got it and appreciated it. He asked me to take a pic of he and the truck with a thumbs up and decided that was the truck he wanted to drive. In a very tiny, tiny way, I may helped someone feel safer. I literally wonder every day if the truck is still in work mode as intended. Maybe it’s better I don’t know, who knows???
Also while at the warehouse, I showed Vasyl two painted rocks that my granddaughter’s gave me before leaving the states. I had already taken many posed pics of the rocks to show them, and had every intention of continuing that, but I wanted to give Vasyl something meaningful from me, so I asked him which one he wanted. The yellow M&M or turtle/ocean one. He chose the yellow M&M and why may you ask. Because it was yellow, like half of their flag. Hopefully it will be a sweet reminder and a good luck charm. This one was painted by my sweet girl “Lena Bug” as I call her.
As the trucks are arriving
He will bring "our" truck to the front
A drone victim of the war
Why more trucks are needed
Shot at but still returned
Middlefinger to a Russian drone
Macabre, sinister, gruesome
Vasyl with TJ's grandkids travel rock
A hidden warehouse in the outskirts
As Jeeps4Peace organizers Stewart and Adam talk to us about the future of the program and the remainder of our trip, the sign is given to get on the bus for the trip north to the city of Lviv. It’s a 4-5 hour trip. Thankfully the road surface gets better, the closer we get to the city. Once there, the bus is trying to get us closer to the hotel, which is situated in the Theatre district 9in the heart of town. And here I think it’s time to describe a number of observations about war in the Ukraine.
It is clear that apart from a nightly curfew, occasional siren alarms and cleverly darkened/boarded windows in historic buildings and churches, western Ukraine with Lviv as center is relatively safe from war actions at this point. Whatever the reason (war concentration in eastern Ukraine and Kyiv; closeness of Nato protected Poland; lack of resources) this part of the Ukraine is important for supply lines and maintenance coming in from the west.
Consequently, citizens here live, or try to live a normal as possible live, with all activities that fit into that. Stores, hotels, restaurants, bars, attractions, they’re all open and active. The streets are busy with cars and stores are busy with people. It doesn’t look like there is a war in Lviv, except, there is an underlying feeling that there is something amiss. There is caution in the streets. A sense of ‘something can happen at any moment.’ But we are staying in a first class hotel Leopolis Hotel of 43 rooms and suites (and its own bomb shelter) in the center of Lviv, where it is easy to forget that Ukraine is at war with aggressor Putin’s Russia and the cost is enormous.
TJ: The hospital very close to the hotel was bombed by a drone two weeks before we got there. Obviously one cannot help but notice it. The wood covering century old stain glass so it won’t be easily blown to glass shards is also a reminder. Oh and the mechanical robot sweepers looking for land mines is one more reminder. The hotel was elegant and comfortable. It also had a bunker. It is the best one in Lviv and it shows. I made the much needed choice to get my own room this night. I have never done such a thing since Han and I have been together. It had nothing to do with him, but everything to do with me needing complete detox time of emotions. He did not take it well at first, but came around to understanding why I needed to do this. We were fine by dinner time and as usual enjoyed each other company and everyone else’s. Sometimes one has to be selfish, as I was in a state of mental self-preservation and there was no fixing it but utter quiet.
Ukraine, the world's bread basket
Millions of Acres of agricultural highlights
Farmers became soldiers and they will return as farmers
Religion is strong in the land
Greek Orthodox Churches with magnificent steeples
Sometimes we see 5 churches in one panorama
Majestic Cranes in their nest
The cameras are out now that the trucks are delivered
Some areas feel little of the war
The dead are always remembered
Plywood protects the leaded glass windows
Heroes of the past sit on their statues
Impromptu market places show up on sidewalks
Life goes on while being alert
Projecting normalcy is wearing thin
Protecting churches and museums
Hotels have their own bunkers
Hotel Leopolis; an oasis in a war tested city
Kumpel Restaurant
Around 6:30 that evening the group starts walking to the Bar-Restaurant Kumpel where our last dinner party will be. It’s about a 30 minute walk, during which we see lots of people walking the streets, going into stores and are in out-going moods. Remarkable people that refuse to stop living their lives because of the Russian aggressor trying to take their freedom. Putin can do whatever his insane mind tells him to, these people are not going to give up their freedom. No matter what. That’s crystal clear to us.
We are having a fabulous going away party with way too much food, lots of hugging, handshakes and exchanging of contact information. We all receive a token of grateful appreciation for our participation in the 16th convoy, that now delivered 700 trucks, cars, SUVs, ambulances and fire trucks to Ukraine. I actually receive 2 plaques because whoever made them, did not realize that this dutchman has 4 first names. It was hilarious to be called: split personality. And the party finishes up before the curfew starts and we sleep a good night’s rest in separate rooms*, without sirens or drone warnings.
TJ: Lviv is a lovely city and I was already wishing we had planned to stay longer. Han covered most of our time above, as it was short, but the restaurant party was beyond belief. Not even the biggest guys in the group could finish all the courses. I was hoping that the food was not wasted. I took some meat inside a napkin for some dogs I saw in the park on the way to restaurant.
Much of the group moved on to a local bar to continue the party. Han and I were invited but he knew I needed some quiet and sleep time.
The hotel we stayed in is definitely the finest one in Lviv.
A Feast of Ukranian Proportions
Too much, but very festive
Certificate of Appreciation: Split personality?
TJ Certificate of Appreciation
Tuesday April 28 – Lviv to Krakow
No words can describe the pain at Field of Mars Cemetery
Han: Since leaving Edinburgh in Scotland the convoy personified an abstract objective: delivering vehicles for Ukraine’s military to use at the Ukrainian’s war for Independence against Russia frontlines. It feels a bit distant. But that feeling disappears the moment you’re arriving at the Marsfield military cemetery in Lviv. The Field of Mars serves as a reminder of the sacrifices made by Ukraine’s fallen heroes, a place where loved ones can come to grieve, remember, and find solace in the shared experience of loss. What’s even worse is that similar fields can be found in every city, town and village of Ukraine.
That’s when reality smashes you frontally in your face and a rage comes over you that instantly turns you into a revenge demon. It’s where you see human desperation and ultimate misery mix into a fury that burns through platinum. And then, with no enemy in front of you…..you tear up, you cry…. and shake your head over the senselessness of it all. As far as the eyes can see, there are rows of gravesites with fiercely waving flags, benches and colorful shrines. Mostly kids that were living a life of dreams just a little over 4 years ago.
We embrace the wives, fathers and mothers of dead soldiers’s families and loved ones. We utter some hopefully soothing words. We let them talk in a language we don’t understand and yet somehow we do. We give them a shoulder or a chest to cry on and then we wonder about the human race. Finally we look at all the wind-waving flags and colorful gravesites until our vision blurs and we slowly turn around and walk down the long path between the graves wiping our tears and stepping on the bus that will take us back to the Polish border. The rage is palpable.. It will take a long time before this fades. If ever.
TJ: My morning honestly began a bit earlier. Richard, a convoy comrade and now friend, encouraged me to visit the church close by where they have the “Wall of Remembrance” for the fallen soldiers of Lviv and nearby areas. If there ever was a time when I wish I hadn’t done something but also completely grateful that I did, it was in that moment. Rows upon rows of photos of men and women who gave their last breath for their country. Beautifully folded origami birds floating from the ceiling, and shrines scattered throughout the hall. Reverence and quiet reflection seeped into me deeply.
The Wall of Remembrance is around the corner from Hotel Leopolis
Walls of Dead Soldiers to Honor
Believing replaces Hope in Eternity
Only praying for them is not enough
Origami birds fly overhead
Daily new names and faces
There has to be something to look forward to
We're all Children of the Universe
Then I heard some angelic singing, I mean really so amazingly harmonious and heartfelt. I turned the corner and came upon a scene that will be etched into my soul forever. (Trying not to cry right now, again.)
Three priest were singing and blessing at least 20 men who were destined for the frontlines. The soldiers were all at complete standing attention. Family in the pews, mothers, fathers, daughters, wives, children….and myself. As quietly as I could, I found a seat and bowed my head. One to show respect, and two to hide my unstoppable tears. After about 15 minutes, I quietly left the same way I came in and not down the center aisle of the church. I did not want to intrude any more than I already felt I had. On my walk back to the hotel, all I could think about were the families who were going to face horrific heartache because they knew that many of the men would not be coming back home, and definitely the men themselves who had to leave their families behind to face such horror.
I seriously don’t think I cried this much since my mama was randomly murdered. I was inconsolable and could not even speak when I was trying to tell Han in the hotel lobby. The feelings kept flowing and one of our comrades had me sit down, until I could gather myself enough to be coherent.
Then 9am rolled around and everything immediately comes to a standstill in Lviv. No one moves, not even vehicles for one full minute as remembrance for the fallen soldiers. This is every single morning at 9am on the dot. There are alarms as a reminder.
I tried to eat some breakfast, but was not particularly hungry. We loaded up in different vehicles for the trip to the military cemetery. Well apparently fate decided I had not cried enough yet.
Many previous convoy folks (even some Ukrainians) chose to not walk through, but stayed in the parking area. Not because they had already seen it before, but because they knew what to expect and just watching from afar was traumatic enough. The most beautiful shrines and upkeep of graves, that I have never witnessed before. Benches next to each gravesite, crosses, whipping flags on every grave, decorated with the fallen soldiers favorite items when alive. Many families were attending to the graves and meticulously weeding them besides adding extra special touches of memories. Sadly, majority of them were elderly parents, who had lost their only sons. One was a little slight woman, which her grief was overflowing that she could not contain it and had to share with someone of her loss. We understood very little of what was said, but completely understood what she needed. Letting her tears flow over and through us, we offered as much empathy, hugs and cried along with her. She was so broken, and it made me feel helpless not able to do more for her.
Ari’s stone forever supports Ukraine’s fight for freedom
We continued walking in silence and saw a priest blessing one of the graves. The soldier’s elderly father was also standing (barely) and overcome with grief. After the blessing he remained and kept kissing his only son’s (and only child’s) picture and cross. If you can see that and not be moved, I can’t imagine. I did not get a photo with him, as it was not important, but I did offer a squeeze, care shown in my eyes and I gently offered him the other stone from my granddaughter “Ari”. Without understanding each other’s language, he DID understand my intention for him. He reverently placed it on his son’s grave, near one of the angel statues and thanked me, put his backpack on and slowly with his head hung so low, as he slowly walked down the long path back to home. I took pics of his son’s photo, grave and stone to show my granddaughter, but only after he was out of my eyesight because it was the right thing to do I felt.
After that, Han and I slowly made our way back to the parking lot and I basically folded into one of my Ukrainian gal friend’s arms, who held me until I could stop the flow of tears.
As the grief turns you smaller than nothing
The faces of the Fallen come alive
Individual tragedies turn into Statistics for the daily news
They are not Universal soldiers; they're Defenders of Freedom
The only things we can offer is solace and solidarity
The Ukrainian Flag stands tall
There is so much pain (and rage)
Our job maybe done…but Ukraine needs so much more!
To realize this that this is their daily life with every single day bringing more bad news, heartache and tragedy. Thankfully there is some goodness sprinkled in when they can celebrate soldiers coming home. Maybe one day, soon I hope, they can have the largest party to celebrate the end of this needless war against humanity and innocent people.
And the heroic warriors will return to their fields and become peaceful farmers once again
The border crossing back into Poland
Hoping for a forthcoming ending to this senseless war
This border crossing is different than the one on the way in. Lines of Ukrainians cross into Poland for a day of shopping, family visits or just a bit of relief. Our bus is Ukrainian, so needs to stay in the country. We are let off at what seems to be a long walkway to a border post. Thankfully there is a bathroom and a tiny store with some food, because it’s already 2:30pm with a long road ahead of us to get to Krakow in Poland. Then the walk to the border post begins. Long story short, it took more than an hour to get through customs and immigration with another long walk to the parking lot on the other side. And here things got a little murky since no one knew exactly where “our” bus was waiting. Well by 4 pm or so the bus was found and turned out to be a small bus (abt. 17 people including driver). We were 18 plus driver and a lot of luggage. Finally with the luggage in the gangways, we climbed to our seats and the trip to Krakow began. Dusk was falling when the driver said we were low on gasoline and an impromptu collection was needed among the passengers. When we finally arrived in Krakow, no-one seemed to know their way around. Consensus finally made us ending up on the parking deck near central rail station, which also houses the giant shopping mall Galeria Krakowska.
We knew our Airbnb was close to the station, but which direction was unclear. Using Google Maps for a detailed direction, we took of course the “wrong” direction, forcing us to roll our luggage up and down stairs and street overpasses. Gratefully we make it to our apartment (which had an elevator to the 5th floor and we order Uber Eats for late night meal.
Our Jeeps For Peace Mission/Adventure was over, yet we were already looking at other options to contribute to Slava Ukraine, the call for Freedom and Sovereignty of an exhausted but courageous country and people.
Religion: the Universal Hope for something better?
In the Ukraine it seems to be the Secret sauce
Strolling to the Ukrainian border
Almost through the first border crossing
Oh no! What's waiting on the other side.
Wonder what George is thinking here?
TJ: Han correctly covered the majority of our experience in border control and trip to Krakow, however some of our details differ.
Our nice young Ukrainian bus driver went through customs with us and helped me with carrying luggage as far as he was allowed to venture before having to go back to Ukraine. Han’s knees were a bit shot because he had yet to get his much needed pain relief injections.
Yes, after walking several more blocks, we finally found the tin can of a van. Everyone crammed in, then two of our crew started handing back the luggage. We were buried with luggage. In our laps, on floorboards, no room for feet practically. It was an uncomfortable long journey to Krakow. I for one was glad to disembark, until we are standing in an unfamiliar parking lot, not having a clue as to where we were and signs we couldn’t read.
There was a huge mall we walked towards, and decided to grab some dinner before locating our Airbnb for the next three nights. I decided on KFC and I was blown away by so many choices. I had an Asian chicken bowl which I would have found it delicious, even if I were not so hungry. The mall was packed.
When we finished, we walked outside to where we saw buses parked, and I loaded my Mapquest with the address for our walk. Just one wrong turn had us up and down more stairs than was necessary. It was already dark, Krakow is huge and we were plumb wore out.
We did have to order some Uber Eats groceries for the next morning, so while waiting, we unpacked only our much needed items, waited for food delivery and then pretty much collapsed into the bed.
EDIT from TJ: It took me two weeks to FaceTime my daughter and granddaughters to explain to them about what happened with the painted stones they gave me. Lena Bug is not much for tears, but both girls got teary-eyed and enjoyed hearing about the stones adventures. Our family is so supportive and I will be forever grateful for their understanding, worry for us, donations to the Go Fund Me (along with many friends and strangers with empathy) and all their love and encouragement.
I feel it was another example from their mom who can personally share with them the impact one has on the world and others, if you just take chances and care.
Wawel Royal Castle is situated on a hill in a bend of the Vistula River, with a length of 1,022 km the longest river in Poland. The complex consists of numerous buildings of great historical and national importance, including the Wawel Cathedral where Polish monarchs were crowned and buried. Some of Wawel’s oldest stone buildings can be traced back to 970 CE, In addition to the earliest examples of Romanesque and Gothic architecture in Poland, it represents nearly all European architectural styles of the Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque periods, which is an important part of why the Historic Center of Kraków was nominated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978. During its many centuries’ long existence, Wawel Castle gave residence to Polish Royalty from King Casimir III the Great to the three Sigismunds, but when Sigismund III moved the capital from Krakow to Warsaw, the city’s reign was over and the downfall began, until serious renovation efforts were undertaken in the early 1900s.
Funding for this renovation was recruited from everywhere and it was interesting to find out that even people from Kolomyia in Ukraine donated to these rehabilitations and restoration and in return were recognized with a personalized brick in the wall leading up to the castle square.
Four important Monarchs left four important chapels. While 
After the tour we invited Andrii for a cappuccino and a bite to eat at a famous nearby outside café named Santos Kawiarnia, where we learn that he is originally from Ukraine, but came to Poland more than a decade ago, where he got married and now was raising a family. We also learned that his brother was a defender in the Ukraine Army and that he had not been able to see his family in Ukraine since the war began. The risk for him being enlisted, in-spite of previously being rejected for active duty, was too great. In honor of his country, we gave him a Jeeps4Peace T-shirt and he gave us a pack of famous Lviv Ukrainian coffee and 2 silver Pierogi keychains.
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