Look at the train’s speed!
During our stay in Austria, Han got a message from his oldest brother, asking us to come and take care of things at his home, when he was getting a Heart procedure operation on May 21.
Even though the operation in his case was considered non invasive, the anxiety levels nevertheless reigned high, especially since his wife suffers a debilitating disease and hands-on support was needed, as we had previously promised, if no one else would be available.
So we took the daytime train from Vienna to Münich and from there to Düsseldorf, Germany, where he picked us up for a short drive to their home just across the border in Holland. The train ride with layover in Münich was a little over 8 hours in spite of the fact that at times the train accelerated to a speed of 300km p/h plus. A German architect who became our compartment neighbor for a stretch of the ride, explained that the high speeds allowed between Frankfort Airport and Düsseldorf, gave the train a high ‘on-time” rating. We were about 45 minutes behind schedule in Frankfurt, but arrived perfectly on time in Dusseldorf. What was annoying was the Restaurant wagon being closed most of the day without any explanation and there was nothing to drink available for hours on end. We arrived in Düsseldorf and via a complicated pin drop exercise on smartphones, we caught up with our brother and drove a quick autobahn trip to his house just across the border.
Babi Panggang for our 20th Anniversary
The 20th of May was our 20 anniversary, but regrettably the circumstances did not allow for extravagant festivities, so it came down to Babi Panggang for dinner: our favorite Indonesian/Dutch meal, which we had Thuisbezorgd.com deliver to the house and we devoured it with gusto. (You will never find this dish in the States.)
The medical procedure the next day went well and Han picked up his brother from the hospital in Belgium a day later already (his brother’s insurance allows him to get medical treatment pretty much anywhere and this hospital in Genk ranks highest in the region for this sort of procedures). The next several days were spent with more family, which also implied more eating and detailed exchanges about travel plans, destinations and medical necessities and required government paperwork pertaining to Dutch citizenship, social security and pension..
A couple of days later we went to see Han’s younger brother Jos and his wife Ria, with whom we had a fabulous afternoon visit and delicious dinner (he is five star chef quality for sure).
An afternoon of culinary and mental delight
Crushed Kroepoek with mushrooms- Everything is edible
Limburg White Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce delicacy
And yet another couple of days later we departed tfami, took the train to Eindhoven Airport where we rented a car for a week, as the next regional travels would be much more convenient with a rental car and on demand transportation. We don’t usually rent a car unless the rates are right and circumstances demand highly flexible transportation. In this case it would be easier visiting a couple of friends and doing some necessary government related paperwork with a car. Taking the train to a big city and from there use busroutes or Über to explore the area is one thing; having to drive and find office buildings and restaurants or other meeting points is a completely different affair. Since meetings these days have to be exactly on time, public transportation is often not an answer. A seven day, $200 hybrid rental car works much better on an agenda like that. (Hertz, Toyota Varis). Tip: If you have a travel credit card and pay for the rental through them, you automatically are covered with insurance. We use a Chase Travel Card.
Visiting our friend Simone
Our first stop was a 3 day visit to our friend Simone in the Province of Brabant, little over an hour from where we picked up the car. We had agreed to see her the following day as we don’t like to put our friends out with visits in the late afternoon or early evening. Yes we have officially aged into that habit. Now one of the things we really like to do every time we visit the Netherlands, is to enjoy all the delicacies offered in many of the “fast-food” French fries restaurants across the country. Our favorites are kroketten or bitterballen, frikandel special and saucijzen broodjes with French fries and mayonnaise.
Dutch Fast Food Delicacies
After we had checked into the Bastion Hotel, which is only 10 minutes from where Simone lives, we set out to find a friture with good reviews and a wealth of choice and found one not far from the hotel, Lunchcafetaria Frietstore & More in the Aldi Shopping Mall. We went there and were so pleasantly surprised by food and ambiance, that we actually returned there once again during our stay.
Due to ongoing medical conditions brought on by Long Covid, Simone occupies now a spacious nice flat in a service complex that would make every American immediately understand the enormous advantages of living in a Social welfare country, where your taxes actually provide your with appropriate benefits when you need them.
Simone was a beautiful woman in her forties when we met on Amelia Island around 2014. TJ worked with her and Luisana from Venezuela in the organization of the now largest Pétanque Tournament in the World, which TJ and Philippe Boets started in 2009. As so often happens with open minded people, they immediately connected into a friendship that will last a lifetime. This time we managed to pick up Philippe, who now lives in Antwerp in the summer months, from the train station in Roosendaal.
We had seen Philippe in the beginning of the year on Amelia Island where he lives during the winter months and excitedly we took off for our visit with Simone and her two cute Dachshunds. The doggies liked me the best and begged for attention. I say this because it is normally Han that dogs gravitate towards.
Simone, Phillipe and TJ
Picture galleries on our computers were opened and hundreds of memories and new stories exchanged. The lunch food Simone had organized contained almost all Dutch snack favorites and it should be no surprise that we took a stack of doggy bags home with us. Her mom and dad live in the same complex, just across the small park from her and they dropped by to say hi. Her mom does all the grocery shopping and we think she bought the store out. Simone was still feeling good enough for us to visit the next day too, so upon checking out of the hotel, we headed over and again had way too many goodies to choose from. Couldn’t stay as long as before, since we were onto our next destination to Middelburg, the province capital of Zeeland.
We were also very happy to see how much better Simone was doing than the last time when we had to cancel our planned visit because of her illness, Now that we have planned to make Europe our home, at least for a number of years, frequent visits are on the menu. We adore her and I was so thankful to see her beautiful, smiling face once again.
Visiting our friend Carly in Middelburg – Zeeland
6 Room Hotel Bruno in Middelburg
Carly became our friend during the years we lived in St.Maarten and was TJ’s maid-of-honor at our mock wedding for friends, who couldn’t make it to the States for our actual wedding in Woodstock, Illinois (film location for Ground Hog Day movie). After we left the island in 2009, she moved to the island of Bonaire for awhile and then moved back to the Netherlands and now lives close to her daughter and grandchildren and extended family in the cozy old town of Middelburg, the capital city of the province of Zeeland. We had spent several days with her in 2016 during our Europe in 90 days vacation.
Han had arranged the hotel in Middleburg called The Bruno Hotel. Fantastic location, clean rooms, nice folks but definitely geared towards a way younger crowd and I have to admit I won’t be staying there again. No AC, bathrooms have zero privacy due to see-through glass walls, teeny tiny rooms, beds you literally have to crawl out of, extremely tight winding death stairs (we were on 2nd floor in room 3), motion lights on stairs that were off timing (I used my phone a lot for light.) and sometimes a bit noisy. Just check out the pics online. Way bizarre. Oh, but they do have a vending machine in the hallway that for 15 euros, you can choose some interesting items to purchase. Most were geared towards “zesty” rom-com bedroom scenes. LOL. Han met the guy who keeps the place maintained and provisioned. Nice kid from Eritrea, who married a girl from Middelburg 16 years ago and now has his own company servicing hotel properties. Great example of successful immigrants.
Han: note that this hotel has no keys for the front entrance door, nor for the room door. Opening them requires a digital key on your phone. Since this requires a smart phone, the technology circle is broken for people like me; I DON’T HAVE A PHONE, which severely limits my freedom, since TJ had to be with me to enter the building and the room.
Parking was available at a parking garage around the corner and a large supermarket was located a a 4 minute walk. So, as far as essentials go, we were quite set. The little square in front of the hotel offered a lively traffic intersection where numerous bicycles and cars maneuvered carefully around each other. Although we noticed that speed of the late-coming e-bike trend does create more dangerous situations.
We picked up Carly, visited for a bit at her flat, then drove back to the hotel from where we walked into the town square and had an early nice dinner, while catching up and making plans on what to do for the next few days.
The next day was set aside to do some important government paperwork related to Han’s social security and pension payments. We spent the better part of the day driving to police stations and city hall trying to get a grip on Murphy’s Law. We finally got all papers signed and stamped and put in the mail.
The day after we all went to visit nearby Veere, a fishing village dating back to the 1500s and saw numerous oddly dressed folks. We could not figure out what this was all about, until we asked some people and we were told that it is a yearly highschool celebration where parents dress in their choice of costumes to camouflage their true selves, while their school age children try to locate them and expose them. The event was called something like Fox Hunt.
One parent was hiding out near the marina, reclining on a bench while dressed like a sheik, smoking a water pipe and was probably never located, even though he was out in the open, easily seen. We saw him walking down the path by late afternoon.
Another two moms dressed as homeless beggars, sitting up against the wall in town, looking unkempt and definitely out of place, since it is very unusual to see this in Holland, however no one approached them (as far as we could tell). They were having the best time together. Tons of parents, tons of kids and tons of fun to watch it all. The children also were required to attend some historic areas and learn about them.
We also did a nice historic walk through the town with Carly being our personal guide and showing us many places as we learning about some things that most visitors wouldn’t find easily.
TJ’s favorite being the tunnel built that was part of the town’s reinforcement walls in the time of Napoleon. Just to imagine the history it has had, boggles the mind. To be able to walk through it, while looking out the windows made for weapons of battle, really is magical now. We continued walking until our legs got tired and our bellies cried for substance.
There are two famous white fish, so-called fast food, dishes native to Zeeland. One is Kibbeling (battered, deep-fried chunks of white fish) and Lekkerbekjes (a larger, battered white fish fillet).
TJ: I promise, this is the best fish I have ever eaten and not just because I was famished. We dipped it into garlic mayo and all three of us were licking our fingers. Of course fries came with it. The Dutch and their “friets” go hand in hand. Or should I say, “fingers to mouth?”
We were lucky because as we were headed back to the car park, we made it just before the downpour. Nothing new for Holland.
Carly asked TJ to choose a scarf when we arrived back to her apartment; she deals in vintage clothing, and I chose a cute dark coral with small turquoise birds flying about. I haven’t worn it yet, as it has been too hot.
Next day, Han and I traipsed around Middleburg, did some errands, people watched and had some Dutch tapas and coffee. It also rained in the afternoon, but we were safely ensconced underneath a terrace umbrella. So very cozy. May have been one of my fave times while there.
TJ was happy to be checking out of our “interesting” hotel and driving back to hand the car in. I am only mentioning this to help others. Listen to your intuition. I wanted to stop for fuel a few miles out from the airport, Han wanted me to wait and assured me he remembered closer gas stations. Sure were, but good luck using them. Result: No attendant to except cash, all four credit and debit cards were refused and someone finally explained that you needed a certain fuel card from the store next to the pumps, which is comparable to a Sam’s or Costco in the states. We were obviously not members, so we drove back, turned the car in, sat in it until the rain slowed down from torrential to “ya going to get wet no matter what”, the attendant came over and I explained to him about the fuel issue being at half tank low and he didn’t say much. When we went inside the airport, I walked over to the rental place and told them our same “oh woe is me, tale” of doing our best to fuel up. She sympathized, but said I signed the contract and handed me the bill of an extra 150.00 Euros, not dollars, but Euros for half a tank of fuel. I was quite peeved, but not her fault, so kept it to myself.
Probably a good thing because later on, I checked my credit card bill and never saw the extra charge. I don’t know if she took pity on being a dorky tourist, or if the credit card declined the charge? I sure was happy to not see it though.
We had a long, long boring six hours to wait for our Ryanair flight and thinking about the money we just might have wasted, almost took my mind off flying. I will go because I love to travel, but still do not enjoy flying. However, I was a bit relieved to finally board this one because I was so dang tired from just sitting around. Flight to Porto was fine too, although arriving around midnight is no pleasure (anymore).
Some of Han’s Observations of Change in the Netherlands:
• I’m with Paul McCartney who recently said he hates the constant tech updates Tech companies seem to introduce to keep themselves relevant. We, the old guard, don’t want to have to relearn all this tech stuff every week or other week. If something works fine don’t change it just because you can.
• Cars that pull you over to the left or right if you do or don’t use the turn signals and constantly talk to you. when you’re driving too slow or too fast.
• Beware how many stores, especially in the Netherlands do not accept Visa/Mastercard and sometimes even Cash (only Pin). The reason is primarily that the store owners refuse to be held hostage by the 3% commissions they require to pay for transactions. American Express is often considered too elitist and Diner’s Club is already far on the way out. The same actually goes for gas stations. We got caught after a while standing in line waiting to get to the pump and then couldn’t get any gas, since our credit and debit cards were not accepted by the system. Not that this was indicated anywhere; you were just supposed to know.
• Most Trainstations have no ticket windows anymore. Some still offer ticket vending machines (although online ticketing is widely preferred) that are already slated for extinction, So how can you legally ride on a train? You can use your CC and swipe it against a column to enter the train area and then DON’T FORGET to swipe it again at your destination to indicate you have left the train and complete the transaction. The system than calculates what you owe and charges your account. Nifty, but what if you have to rush to the next platform to catch a connecting train or simply forget to check out?
• Parking: Paying for parking has become another tax revenue thing for cities, towns and villages and everyone seems to be jumping on the bandwagon. We wanted to park our car next to a small canal in the town of Veere, a stretch of maybe 500 meters. Well you have to park your car, walk to the central payment meter, learn Dutch to follow the instructions on how to pay, get a ticket, walk back to the car, place it inside on your windshield and don’t be a minute late on your return, because that results in a 100 euro parking ticket penalty. We could not seem to get it to work, even though Dutch is my birth language.
• Since 2021 cities don’t have Post offices anymore. Postal services have been handed to private stores. In Middelburg Primera offers the only mail service option. All city services need an appointment. Banks already vanished a long time ago; all financial transactions of any kind are done online, of course with double or triple securities. In this year’s travel I have already called my US bank three times to remove a block on my account for tech reasons US bankers are not even aware of yet.
• The last hotel we stayed in has no keys, neither for the front entrance door, nor for the room door. Opening them requires a digital key on your phone. Since this requires a smart phone, the technology circle is broken for people like me; I DON’T HAVE A PHONE, which severely limits my freedom, since TJ had to be with me to enter the room.
• And don’t forget, you cannot randomly walk into an office (any office) without an appointment. You have to call first and set the appointment. Of course calling is the next barricade; from a mobile phone or a landline. Let’s say mobile phone since everyone is supposed to have one these day. Make sure you have a plan that works overseas or else you won’t be able to. The world may seem to have gotten much smaller, but the distance now is caused by technology and accessibility.
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