Feb 10

A Leisure Day in Havana

I wanted our last day in Cuba to just be relaxing, and I decided to call it “TJ’s Day”: A leisure day in Havana.
Well, I let Han join in too. What is a day without my bestest friend?
Of course we were served another delicious breakfast by Ari and took our time to enjoy the lovely spread that she prepares each morning.
We began our day by strolling through the neighborhood, checking out the huge set of stairs where locals hang out to visit and at the foot of the stairs is a popular pizza joint, where you can purchase a slice of pizza for a quarter. Yasset previously mentioned that it was good, but we just had breakfast and honestly I’m not in the mood for pizza in Cuba.
We saw the neighborhood meat store, where slabs of meat are laid out and hanging from the ceiling for purchase.
It is really just a little hole in the wall, but he seemed to do a steady business.
No refrigeration and flies settling on the meat is still not the most appetizing thing I have seen, but I’m getting used to the fact that hordes of people in the world have no problem with that. I have seen it from markets in Budapest to San Francisco and numerous places in between.
Also noticed that there was a lot of home renovation and upgrading in the neighborhood and one particular observation showed that all newly renovated homes have added a one car garage

 

Also saw some interesting graffiti and ceramic and porcelain tiles of all color and mosaic designs. I love colorful tiles.

No matter what your house looks like, add some tiles and it becomes special.

Visiting the Romeo y Julieta Cigar Factory

We made a pit stop at one of the cigar factories. It was extremely busy. I was actually surprised to see
so many tourists in one of the neighborhoods of Central Havana. They usually stick more to old Havana.
I stepped into the cigar humidifier room, and low and behold, the VIP door was open. I did not know until
I had taken some pics and looked around, that it was actually supposed to be closed and meant for “actual
VIP’s”. A woman came up behind me and gently ushered me out and closed the door, but it was so cool
that she let me take photos beforehand.
Old Havana Draws us in again
We decided to be brave and once again walk to old Havana, more sightseeing, more photos and more resting on benches in parks, preferably in the shade watching the movements of Cuban life flow past us.
When visiting Cuba, make sure you find a shady spot and just sit back to people watch. It is quite the treat.
One of the more unusual sights for me today were hundreds of workers, dressed in orange jumpsuits, filing out of a fenced and gated complex, climbing onto multiple buses and I guess going “home” after working. Come to find out that these workers were flown in from Dubai to build a new HUMONGOUS hotel in the center of Havana. Not even one cuban local was hired, and I have to wonder how can that be allowed? It seems a little underhanded at best. To consider that Cuban workers get roughly 30.00 CUC per month and the Indian workers are being paid upwards of $1500.00 per month. I will be one person who will not be visiting their hotel. Okay, maybe to take a pee break, but that is all.
See below links for more info.

Finding the Artist Tourist Market 

We were trying to find our way to the huge local artist shopping plaza and we thought it was in the San Francisco
area of Havana near the beginning of The Malécon. Well we realized we were still a good bit away, so we hired a pedal cab to deliver us nearby. Now that was super fun and I would highly suggest it to everyone. It was comfortable, fantastic driver, friendly and even had music playing and his English was excellent.
When he dropped us off we saw a restaurant, sat down on the street terrace and ordered some lunch. Oh boy, we should have walked on a little bit more. Took forever, like FOREVER as in 90 minutes, to be served and the food delivered. The waitress did her best to make amends for the less than stellar food and offered us espresso, which we gladly accepted since we had more walking in our near future. The restaurant is called, “Cafe Lamparilla” and if you want to just have a refreshment, it is perfect because of the location and the gorgeous outdoor patio setting. Want food? Just walk around the corner and there is a host of choices.
We paid our bill and continued our leisurely walk along The Malécon towards the Port. The breeze coming off the water was perfection on this very warm February day.
When we finally reached the inland port area, I saw a church that had the most unusually colorful stained glass window. I had to stand for a few minutes and really savor the workmanship.
Right behind the church was my ultimate destination today, “Almacenes San Jose”. It is a huge shopping warehouse on the docks where locals are allowed to sell their original art work, souvenirs and so much more. Stall after stall is loaded with local goodies, the majority of sellers speak English, everyone is having a pleasant time and the art work is gallery worthy.
Be ready to bargain, as that is part of the fun. I purchased a few more seed necklaces that are red and local to Cuba, and a wooden musical instrument for my grandson that is used consistently throughout Cuba called “claves”. They have a pretty Cuban scene wood burned into them and the artesian selling them, burned my grandson’s name into them also, at no extra cost. He even showed me how to play them. Now I just hope my grandson does not use them incorrectly as boys are known to do. LOL
 
After our shopping and exiting the building, we were approached by a taxi driver who offered us a ride home for 10.00 CUC pesos. Keep in mind most taxi rides are 5 OR 10 CUC period. There are no meters and you can bargain with the drivers. This one tells us he will be right back and we turn to see another guy who had been talking to the first driver and tells us, “your taxi is here” when a car pulls up in front of us. So we jump in the car, he hops in the front next to the driver and as we pass the first taxi driver, he calls out a good-bye and laughs. So we realized quickly that we had just jumped into a “gypsy” cab and literally stolen from the first taxi guy, no doubt a gypsy cab as well. Um, not much you can do after that, but to sit back and enjoy the ride. They dropped us off at our destination, which was the Mall close to our home and that was that.
We relaxed, had a nice cold Cristal beer (or two) on the balcony and watched the neighborhood weekend fold out below our perch. Some people don’t like Cristal, the local beer, but I find it refreshing and not too heavy. I quite liked it.

Dinner Prepared by Ari

We were invited for dinner in tonight and shared the table with two other guests from Germany. Two young women from Cologne, just 40 miles from where Han was born, had been traveling the entire island for two weeks and were spending their last couple of nights in Havana. They needed to confirm their return tickets, so after dinner Pedro drove them to the nearest WIFI park.

We traded Cuba stories over a real cuban meal prepared once again by Ari. (She was wearing the earrings I gave her.) I am damn sure that the pork chop I ate was the best in my life. After we finished eating, the entire family set down, ate their dinner, as we set once again relaxing on our favorite balcony.
After dinner Yasset and Pedro invited us to the small local bar down the street. I am not sure what I expected, but when he said small, he meant small. One table which was seemingly waiting for us, sat down and began lively banter with he owner. We had some beers, the owner served us fries on the house and brought a small cigar for Han to smoke.
They also serve food, with ridiculously cheap prices and many locals came and went with their to-go orders. If I had not eaten already, I would have enjoyed trying something. We stayed just long enough to finish our beer, then Pedro wanted to show us the monument for the first railroad station in Cuba built in 1839. I took a quick peek at the half hidden plaque commemorating this important part of Cuban sugarcane history and jumped back in the car. It was quite chilly out believe it or not.
Back to the house to pack the remainder of items to ready for our departure. sniff-sniff…
Note: Bicycles are one of the main modes of transportation and most have baskets or milk crates attached on the back to carry items. Music CD’s or old DVD disk, shiny side out, are attached to the crates and used as reflectors. How ingenious is that? They are much easier seen than the little reflectors you see on bikes in the states, day or night.

Feb 09

A Daytrip to the Pinar del Rio Province and the Viñales Valley

Woke up around 7:00, and was not in the mood for breakfast as it was too early. So I snacked on a piece of bread.
Loaded up the car and we were on our way for the 2.5 hour each way daytrip to Pinar del Rio Province and the Viñales Valley area.
The four lane highway between Havana and Pinar del Rio is actually quite nice. We learned so much history along the way. Yasset and especially Pedro are full of knowledge of the area that they enjoy sharing.
They told us people avoid the highway at night due to no lights and therefore roaming animals. Simply too dangerous to take the chance.
What I found enlightening and amusing is the eclectic modes of transportation you will see along the way. As you are flying by going 70mph in a car, you will pass hitchhikers, bicycles, horse and buggies, mopeds, motorcycles with side cars, buses and semis. By the way everything is measured in kilometers and meters in Cuba. To see all this on a four-lane highway was a bit bizarre. Also many police controls, as a result of which I noticed we slowed down substantially upon seeing them.
We stopped along the way to take a potty break and be forewarned you will get mobbed by the country folk trying to sell fruits, cheese, bread, sandwiches, ice cream or whatever they have. Some simply beg for money. I cannot even begin to imagine how difficult it must be to live outside the city area. I mean it really is in the middle of nowhere land.
Going to the toilet was a whole other adventure in itself. Egads…is all I have to say about that. 

 

Hotel Los Jazmines

Our first stop was Hotel Los Jazmines to check out the views down into the valley, indulge in a pina colada, listen to local music and be included in Pedro’s memories of bringing Yassat to swim in the huge pool when he was little. Back then you could use it for .50 cents, however it only cost 8.00 now and seven of that can get you drinks or food.
The views are quite stunning and we throughly enjoyed relaxing while listening to the group that calls itself Color Cubano. Han even bought a CD he is now using to put under the photo videos. We walked around the hotel and out to the pool area. I was really, really wanting to jump in the pool. So welcoming and it was blazing hot outside, but we had many things on the agenda and the pool was not one of them. (insert sad face here)
I have read some of the reviews for this hotel and it is basically average, but the row of cottages have higher reviews and are set apart with their own amazing views of rolling hills and a valley dotted with homes and cowboys.

 

Number One Area in the World for Tobacco Growing

We then traveled a little further out into the countryside and visited a little bar/gift shop/cigar farm with old fashioned tobacco barns. They grow, pick, hang and roll the cigars right there. Viñales is known to be the number one area in the world to grow tobacco. Of course I had to purchase a bundle and get a picture with the very cool guy rolling the cigars. Pedro remembered him from 30 years earlier. It was all a little dreamy and magical. I admired the old plow in the barn, which apparently is still being used. In the restaurant area was a woman singing who had a charming voice too. According to Han the guy accompanying her on guitar was quite remarkable as wellL ovely, just lovely!
After driving between hilltops called “The Two Sisters” we arrived at Mural de la Prehistoria. We drove up to the admissions gate and Pedro recognized a friend who was a guard there. He let us enter free of charge, but Pedro bought him and a few other guys some beers. Pedro is quite the gentleman.
This site boast a massive mural, 375 feet long, which was painted on the side of the mountain in 1961 by Leovigildo Gonzalez Morillo, a student of world famous Mexican mural artist Diego Rivera, commissioned by Fidel himself. It took 18 people four years to complete.
The huge snail, dinosaurs, sea monsters and humans symbolize the timeline of evolution and quite honestly is odd at best, but truly impressive when you realize the danger in being involved in the painting process.
Located in the same area is a restaurant, gift shop and horses to ride for 5.00.
We also saw one of the most beautiful white oxen being lead on a leash like a dog. Don’t see that too often.

Viñales, a quaint touristic town

We then traveled to the city center of Viñales, which is quite quaint and does have some tourism. Pedro went in search of a old friend’s home, her name was Mygdalia, and hostess of her own AirB&B. Finally found the address with the help of many locals, she was very happy to meet us, showed us around her home and we climbed to the roof to have a look around. The homes in this area are very colorful and cheerful. However it is quite touristy and if you want a room anywhere, I would suggest planning well ahead. Pedro, Yasset and Mygdalia want to help each other out in suggesting one another AirB&B’s. Her home was lovely and welcoming, she was also cooking some food which made all of us very hungry, so you know what our next stop will be.

La Carreta de San Vicente for Lunch

LUNCH!!! As we drove to Pedro’s chosen restaurant, we enjoyed the wonderful, vibrant sights along the way.
This restaurant is set fairly high up where you have to climb a flight of stairs stairs. It is an open air restaurant and the kitchen is open too, so you can see how they cook. It is called “La Carreta de San Vicente”.
They bring out vast amounts of food and way too much to eat. It is a bit pricier than other places we have been, more like USA prices, but the food was good, the beer cold, the company lively and the service outstanding. AND the breeze flowing through was like a slice of heaven on the hot day.
Pedro and I about went round and round about who was going to pay. He kept paying for everything and would not let us. This time I insisted the waitress bring us the check. He said we were his guest, but he had already accrued the cost of so much, including the car. The waitress listened to the Americana (me) and we were on our way again. Sorry, but not sorry Pedro.  insert sweet thankful smiley face here. Note: He got us back anyway as we were treated on our last evening to dinner at the house.

 

Indian Caves

After lunch, Pedro decided we would take a boat ride inside of old Indian caves where you have to walk down into, to get to the boat. Honestly, I have never been too keen on caves, but I went along and was very careful where I stepped. Damn sure did not want to slip and break my butt.
Inside was interesting, the boat ride was a bit short (I was okay with that) and when we got out at the end, there was a gentleman making grass baskets. I bought one and gave it to good friend Sharon as a present.

 

We were planning on some beach time, but we were informed it was still 1 1/2 hours away, so we all voted to bypass that and headed back home. Besides it was getting late and we did not want to drive in the dark.
Yasset slept most of the way home and did not wake until Pedro made a pit stop to pick up some soda and cookies. We all needed some sugar at that point.
When we got home Yasset and Han climbed the spiral staircase to the top and took night photos from the roof. I declined since it was dark and tiny spiral staircases are not my friend. Han stayed up a bit longer and I found my way to bed. Han ate our leftovers from the night before, and I was so tired that I was not even hungry.
It was a long, enjoyable, eventful day with our new wonderful friends/family.

 

Note: You may not want to bother renting a car in Cuba. It is difficult, expensive and if you do not have connections, you will most likely receive a lemon that will leave you stranded. Even Pedro, who is Cuban national, had to change the car in three times before he received one, a French Renault, that actually drove well and did not break down.
Also with any meal or drink, if you get a napkin and it is still usable, pocket it because I promise you will need it down the road for potty breaks. Also have some small change like 10 peso pieces, to pay for bathroom usage. If you give them a dollar, the bathroom attendant considers that payment and you do not receive change back. It can get costly if you are not mindful.

Feb 08

Sightseeing Havana’s Waterfront and Suburbs

This morning we had a substantial leisurely breakfast, then sat and blogged some. Needed to catch up on some writing because there are so many impressions that it’s easy to forget when you don’t stay on top of things. For today the agenda calls for sightseeing Havana’s waterfront and suburbs. We plan to do this by taking the double decker bus Habana bus Tours, from Parque Central along the Malécon Waterfront to the Miramar suburbs and beyond.

 

I walked around the house and gave Yasset a few pointers about where you could obtain certain things like thin box springs, placing a mirror over the bathroom sink and a few decorative ideas. He said his dad “Pedro” wants to replace the tile in the living room, but both Han and I hopefully talked him out of it. The tile makes it real Cuba and it looks cool.
Pedro (our host) picked us up at 1:30 to drop us off at Central Park square to catch the bus tour, but beforehand brought us a delicious piña colada to the balcony, we all toasted to Wednesday afternoon and took some photos. He makes an outstanding piña colada. Later I learned that his nighttime job is bartending at a Havana nightclub. He had taken a vacation from that for his son Yasset’s visit, but normally he works 6 days a week from 7pm to 4am at his regular job – for the last 26 years!!!

 

Havana Bus Tour

I would highly suggest the Jump On, Jump Off bus tour. You are able to see so much more of Havana and it was definitely worth the 10.00 CUC each. Han and I both took a bazillion pics again. I am not sure if we will ever get through all of them. There are two bus tours, the one we took and a 5 CUC one that takes you to the beaches. Our tour took us past many landmarks, statues, squares and buildings, important to Cuba’s past and present. From the top of an open tourbus you get a unique perspective. It sometimes feels a little like voyeurism.
When we got off the bus, I was in need of a potty break so we went to hotel “The Telegrafo”, used their facilities then sat on the terrace to have a drink and a small bite of food. Just enough to help us make the trip home by foot. It is a fairly long walk, even now that we know our way around the neighborhoods in Old Havana, China Town and Central Havana. It’s actually quite easy getting around.

 

Along the way through the parks and neighborhoods, I pulled out the remainder of pencils and pens I had brought with us, and started passing them out to school kids who were on the way home from school. Just a simple pencil earned me a beautiful smile and “gracias” from those cute kids and their parents. It made the walk home so much more enjoyable and fun.

 

 

 We kicked back for a bit on the balcony, had a rum drink, then walked over to Loto in China Town and ate another rave worthy meal. Once again we brought some home. (This time we did not give it away since no one asked). As we sat in the restaurant, a nice man from Baltimore introduced himself and said he traveled to Cuba on his own, because his wife is the type that prefers to stay in the finer places and he likes AirB&B’s like normal people. LOL

Turned in early tonight, since we have an early wake up tomorrow for a scouting tour 100 miles to the west, to Pinar del Rio and Valle Viñales, that Yasset and Pedro invited us to join. They want to offer a variety of tours for their guests and visitors to Cuba.
Enjoy the slide show video for today, Sightseeing Havana’s Waterfront and Suburbs. It gives a good impression of the many faces of Cuba.

Feb 07

Central and Old Havana Walking Tour

Today is scheduled to take the cow by the horns and do the central and old Havana walking tour. Three hours of sightseeing with our guide Jorge, an IT tech for a Havana hospital with as second job, guiding tours through the city and countryside.
We slept like babies last night. Room was quiet, dark and AC blowing was the perfect recipe for a calm rest in preparation for today’s Central and Old Havana Walking Tour.
Our morning started with a hearty breakfast cooked right in Ari’s kitchen, then Jorge came by to retrieve us for our three hour “walking” tour of Havana, which turned into EIGHT hours. The three of us were having so much fun that the time flew by, but by 5:30pm Han and I both were practically begging to return home and Jorge was fairly dragging too.
The amount of history, information, sights, sites, shopping, food, parks, museums and more are enough to boggle the mind. I swear my neck is sore from wanting to see every classic car that drove by.
Old Havana is a sight to behold. I seriously cannot even begin to describe everything we saw and the feelings that at times seemed overwhelming. I find that there are too many tourists, however that is not very fair, since we are also tourists but dang…it is super busy and bustling. Pretty much like New York, Paris or Amsterdam on a beautiful spring morning. Maybe it was so busy because it’s Tuesday and Tuesdays are cruise ship arrival days.
I will have to let the photos tell most of today’s story. Between the two of us, we took close to 500 pictures.
My two favorite things to photograph are the cars and architecture. Even the buildings that are in ruin are a thing of beauty to behold.
I bought a few souvenirs which included some long red necklaces made of small nuts that are native to the island and then a few cloth bags. Jorge insisted upon carrying my bag because in Cuba it is unseemly for a woman to carry bags while men are empty-handed. Being that I am married to a gentleman myself, I sincerely appreciated him doing this, especially since Han is loaded with cameras.
A few things that caught my attention were the cages of cute healthy puppies being sold in a park. Oh I would have, if I could have, brought one home. They were the cutest. There were also birds for sale. Animals are wonderfully cared for here in Cuba and they have the life, since they are allowed anywhere. We saw so many dogs playing in the streets like little children. Two doggies had a plastic bottle that they were playing tug-of-war with and were in the joy of the moment. Everyone had some good laughs over their antics. The dogs here are loved and trained well.

Hemingway’s Favorite Watering Holes

We stopped by the “El Bodeguita Del Medio”, one of two favorite Hemingway hang-outs when he lived here in the late 50’s, early 60s, where many famous people have since dined and the walls are completely covered in autographs and signs, so of course I had to write my name on one of the walls. I borrowed a pen from a family who was visiting from Budapest, they were lovely to chat with and Jorge helped one of the young women with tips about where to go dancing.
You are allowed to go in and look around even if you are not eating there. They are accommodating, but don’t ask a waiter to borrow a pen, as the reply most likely will be a stern “no”. Pens are difficult to get in Cuba, so I guess he was worried he would not get it back.
Hemingway is huge here and there are photos, bust and names everywhere. Even though he was a bit crazy, the Cuban people still enjoy telling stories about him, real or rumored. We had lunch at one of his other favorite hangouts, the Floridita, or at least next door to the bar in the restaurant. The food was not worth mentioning actually, and except for the fact that it was a designated WiFi area, hence many young people were hanging out in the square’s vicinity, this famous tourist spot is not for us.
We saw a small parade of dancers on stilts (Mocko Jumbies) and fancy costumes coming down the cobblestone streets. They were extremely entertaining and the music caused me to shake my hips a bit, at the delight of one of the older waiters in the restaurant.
There is an former nunnery that used to be an orphanage and there was a little cabinet installed in the wall that if a family could not take care of an infant, they would place the baby there and the nuns would raise the baby.
On this same street we saw a scene for the 2nd Classic American Car documentary being filmed. We quickly had to make haste to get out of the way, but it was fun to watch. It had something to do with weddings.
As we were walking along with Jorge, two police officers stopped him and asked for his ID, to make sure he indeed had permission to be our guide. The tourists are, to the extreme, protected and privileged here. There are street hustlers, called jeneterios, trying to make a buck by guiding you to restaurants of their choice, or a cigar shop, for commissions, but our experience with them have been pleasant after we wave them off. Their English by the way is remarkably good.
Once Jorge was cleared, we were on our way again. The guides are used to it, as it is a way of life here, however I personally think countries should be more protective of their own citizens.
We spent a couple of hours at the lovely “Museo Nacional De Bellas Artes”, museum of Cuba. I was scolded because I took some photos. Whoops…
It is quite large over several floors and you can easily lose yourself in art, comfort and AC for a few hours at least. It also offers a small bistro, which housed a castle made of old European style puter coffee pots.
I took a potty break at Gran Café El Louvre, and yes it is grand inside and out.
Note: If you can hold out, wait and go into the finer restaurants and hotels when looking for the baño, as they have better, cleaner facilities and toilet paper.

Parks and Churches

We were able to see the strongest tree in Cuba which is called Ceiba (very huge), and further down in the park was a majestic flowering tree signed “Por La Paz” and buried in dirt especially brought in from the countries in America. All the countries of the American Continent are listed on the gate and the tree is enclosed to eliminate damage.
The churches and cathedrals are the most ornate and detailed I have ever laid eyes on. Artistry and workmanship at it’s finest. We visited the Cathedral, the Francis of Assisi church and several chapels.
We stopped by the famous coffee shop called “Café el Escorial” and we had a giggle at my expense because I ordered a Mexicano that I thought would be cold with Tequila, however it turned out to be warm liquor, lemon and coffee. It was odd tasting at best. I would not order it again and gave it to Han to finish up.(sic)
I thought I would gag when I saw a guy sitting at the next table with a Green Bay Packers cap on. LOL
As we were literally on our last leg for the day, we opted for a government taxi, they are yellow, back to home, it cost 10 CUC and the driver was very nice, ready to show pictures of his family in an instant. We decided to do the old car tour some time later this week.
Back at home at 6:00, we got no further than discussing about dinner because we chose instead to have a few drinks on the balcony, eat buttered cuban bread and two small bananas and call it a night. By 9:00 we were in the bed reading. No shame in my game. LOL
One of the things I will miss the most are the street vendors pushing carts through the streets and loudly hawking their items for sale. Anything from brooms to pan “bread” to helados (ice cream). To sit on the balcony and wave and chat with the neighborhood coming by is one of the best feelings ever. Yes I am still here, but I know how much I will already miss Cuba.
It is also interesting to watch the older woman on the corner (who I teasingly call the Cuban mafia) pass items through her door grate after people stop by give her money in return for usually cigarettes and such. She knows everyone. It’s like an odd corner market.
Note:
Very few people here ask for favors but if they do, I can assure you they really, really need it. It is not like in the states where some people make a living at begging. Here it is called survival. Most everyone here has to have two jobs just to eat. Doctors are paid 50.00 per month. PER MONTH for goodness sakes!!!
Traffic lights are set on a timer and it shows the countdown in digital numbers to you can know it is almost time to go. I think this is a fabulous idea.
If your guide is pulled aside by a police officer, just know it is for tourist protection. They want to make sure he or she is documented to show you around.
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Feb 06

First Impressions of Havana, Cuba

Streets of Havana Today I’m looking forward to getting the first impressions of Havana, Cuba, something that has been on my bucket list for a long long time.
In the morning, the last one in Matanzas, we were able to relax with our host over coffee and then had the drudgery of packing. I was a bit sad because they truly feel like family now and I will miss them, but we promised to visit again soon.
Our taxi friend Jonel arrived at 12:00 but explained to us that he ate some bad fish and was quite sick from food poisoning, but he felt so bad that he could not drive us to Havana, as we also have become friends. Besides Cubans are very dedicated, respectful human beings, and take responsibility extremely serious.
He said he had called a friend of his, “Derby”, who could take us if we wouldn’t mind. We assured him it was fine. He should go home and rest.
His friend Derby arrived, huge hugs were given and received, then packed up our luggage for the hour and half drive to Havana. We had mountains on one side and crashing ocean waves on the other. Livestock, changing landscapes, domiciles and interesting vegetation were enjoyable to gaze at. There were also several power plants, factories, oil rigs, refineries and of course classic cars along the way. When you see a new car, it is an oddity and seems weird.
Statue of Jose MartiWe arrived in Havana and Han wanted to find a money exchange since the one in Matanzas had been closed for lunch. He went into the shopping mall Carlos III across the street, but the line was too long. Our taxi driver, Derby bought me some pan “bread” to snack on while we waited. It was yummy. He was a lot of fun to “try” and talk with and full of information. By the way, if you find an eatery or bread store and there is a line waiting to get in, then get in line because it is known to be the best around. Just like the bread store, the line never slowed down.
Note: Just give up on opening your own car door, especially if you are a woman. Cuban men are chivalrous to a fault. They offer their hand to help you and definitely will not allow you to carry luggage.

Paraiso Rojo, our AirBnB in Central Havana

We quickly found our way to our AirBNB hosts, unloaded the car, paid Derby and checked in. Actually Pedro, our host paid Derby in CUC (convertible pesos) and Han paid Pedro in USD.
Wow, our new host family bends over backwards to make sure you know anything and everything about your surroundings, and to make sure you feel it is your own home immediately. They take your luggage to your room, they show you completely around the house and point out things like fresh fruit and beverages to help yourselves to, provide customized maps of the area, explained our requested itinerary of tours and even explain the money (even though we already knew many of the things cousin Jorge informed us on). Unlike us, most of their guests fly into Havana and come straight to the house.
Pedro is also going to arrange some Cohiba Cigars for us, so we don’t have to go in search of them. It is tricky to find authentic cigars on the street, unless you know someone, or buy from government stores which are very costly at up to 25.00 CUC per Cohiba cigar.
There is a secret to buying Cuban cigars, that only the locals know, but that evening there was a knock on our door and Han went down to take ownership of a beautiful box, sealed in his presence. A quick and easy experience you only get from trustworthy people like the Arbolaez family.
In the living room we spoke with two other guest couples, who were sadly on their way back home. They were delightful and I wish they could have stuck around longer, because they would have definitely been fun to hang out with.
Note: We are now all Facebook friends. Maybe one day, we will meet up on Cuba again.

 Walking the Neighborhoods to a Restaurant in China Town

Jorge, who was giving us all the details upon arrival, asked if we were hungry and I was actually “hangry” at this point, so he offered to walk us to one of their favorite restaurants, La Flor de Loto, and show us the way.
On the way through neighborhoods we stopped in a huge church and I lit a candle for my mama, just as I had done all over Europe last year.
It was majestic with intricate details and stained glass windows. We took a few moments to look around, then off we went to eat.
The restaurant was hopping busy, but we were quickly seated.
Jorge had told us the portions are huge and what an understatement that was. Han and I both packaged up over half our meal and out the door for the 20 minute stroll home since we were tired.
We had just turned the corner and a nice man sitting on his stoop pointed at the plastic bag and asked us for the food. He had a wife and small child standing behind him, with little to no furnishings inside his home. I did not hesitate and realized with him asking, his family must really be in need because Cuban people are a very proud people. They were so sweet and appreciative, and we gained such a warm feeling.
Note: We later found out that many people purposely congregate nearby in hopes of receiving your leftovers. It is up to you, but it can never hurt to be kind to your fellow man. However, the family we gave our food to, actually lived around the corner, and who can say no to a child?

The Carlos III Shopping Mall Experience

We decided to walk a little further down the street to the mall in search of a hat for me, because tomorrow is our walking tour of Central and Old Havana and my face needs a break from the direct sun. Found a cute floppy hat for 11.70 CUC, but we were short of about 10 cents in change. The cashier/clerk waved us away as in no worries, bagged the hat and I guess that was a small version of paying it forward.
Cuba is familyThe malls and restaurants in Cuba have huge play areas for children and they have such loving parents. Family is number one in Cuba. I saw a young man of maybe 19, walking arm in arm with his elderly grandmother and he was so gentle with her. Just a lovely and loving culture here, and I wish it were so around the entire world.
I admired one of the cutest babies who was approximately two weeks old, and the mother offered for me to hold her. I was amazed but declined and I hope I did not offend her. It just took me by surprise because no one outside of family is going to offer you to hold their baby in the states. I wish now I had, and if given this chance again I will just be honored that she wanted to share her baby with me. That was the only time I felt our cultures clash, but not in a bad way of course. My first impressions of Havana Cuba are overwhelmingly positive.
On the way back to our home, Han mentioned I was being checked out. LOL With my thick figure I fit right in and with being light skinned, I am definitely a unique sight to them I suppose. I teased Han that if I am ever in the market for another husband, I will hit up Cuba.
One of our hosts “Yasset” invited us out to a local bar down the street for a drink, but since both of us have aching feet and sore limbs, we opted out, but promised to join him tomorrow. (Yasset has lived in Miami since he was 19 years of age, but has the desire to move back to Cuba. He and his father own the AirBNB home.)
I also asked Yasset if it was common for local folks to ask for food and he said no, so it made me feel even better to help out the family. So if you ever get to Cuba, feed someone, it does the heart good.
Our AirBNB is located in Central Havana inside a real Cuban neighborhood with everyone visiting in the streets and yelling down to friends from balconies. Of course we joined in. The B&B itself is well appointed and super clean, even though the furnishings are that of a trailer park type furniture from the 60’s and 70’s. Come to think of it, just like the vintage cars, the furniture is vintage as well. I, myself, found it charming. I am not into the resort type of vacations. I love being in the thick of things, like sitting out on the balcony, smoking a cigarette and waving at people passing by. My first impressions of Havana Cuba are fabulous. People are friendly and the city is the safest city I’ve ever walked around in.
Note:
Pedestrians do not have the right of way. Streets are meant for motorized vehicles, so if you happen to cross the street, you need to be mindful about oncoming traffic. Most locals walk in the streets due to some being injured by falling deteriorated balconies. Yeah, concrete or bricks on the head, not so good.
Also, if you are sensitive to car fumes, it is best for you to find another destination than Havana. The main streets are often very smoky, but as stated before, there are an abundance of back streets and are more interesting to check out.

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