Magic transpired this morning. I woke up to the sounds of home in Matanzas, Cuba. Horns honking, dogs barking, people yelling ‘buenos dias’ and roosters crowing. Some of you may know that I used to live in St. Maarten and in my heart consider it home still. So it was delightful this morning to feel (and hear) the comforts of home again.
We relaxed on the front porch overlooking the bay while we relished in our Cuban coffee and fruit salad for breakfast. (I could get used to this.)
When we explained to our host Acela that Han was planning to write a story about Dutch Admiral Piet Hein, who in 1628 conquered the Spanish Treasure Fleet in the Bay of Matanzas, she went on the phone and fifteen minutes later had an appointment set for us with Dr. Ercilio Vento Canosa, the historian for the city of Matanzas and well-known around Cuba. Another 15 minutes later our arranged taxi arrived and off we went to meet with Dr. Canosa who apparently had written a documentary manuscript about the events back in 1628, titled ‘La Flota de la Plata’ (the Silver Fleet).
We were lightly warned that he was not a very friendly man, but we found the complete opposite to be true. He was very excited to meet with us and talk about his passions and the book he wrote about Piet Hein and the Silver Fleet.
He speaks multiple languages fluently and matched Han’s brain cells to brain cells. LOL They hit it off immediately. I kept up as best I could, but obviously missed quite a bit due to only understanding English.
I am getting my Rosetta Stone Spanish Course out as soon as I get home.
Dr. Ercilio Vento Canosa
Besides being a medical doctor and historian, Dr. Canosa is also an accomplished artist and many of his masterpieces hang in his office. I was very flattered that he was so welcoming and took much time with us. Han is going to try to help him get his book published.
He gave us one of his prized archeological mementos, and asked us not to tell anyone. (so it is a secret, shhh.) At the time we were not sure if he was not allowed to give us the artifact, but later we learned that he did not want everyone in town to come and ask for something too. The story is that it is a piece of a nail from a Spanish Galleon, that sank during the 1628 battle in the Bay and given to him, by a diver in Jacques Cousteau’s team, who were diving for artifacts in 1986, when they lost a little submarine in the bay. Ercilio also told us that Canadian superstar film maker James Cameron (Titanic, Avatar etc.) is preparing a treasure dive expedition in the bay, as many historic insiders believe that a lot of Silver Fleet treasure is still buried under the sediment of time. For details on why that is very possible, you’ll have to read Ercilio Vento’s manuscript after we publish it, as it has to do with how the Spanish layered the gold and silver throughout their vessels.
Afterwards he strolled with us across the town square and introduced us to the owner of his favorite restaurant where he suggested us to have lunch.
They were expecting a party to come in and at first had no room for us, but after Ercilio (Dr. Canosa) spoke to the owner, a table was arranged for us. We already have connections in Cuba. How bad ass is that?
He was not able to join us, but we will be seeing him again tomorrow afternoon.
Discovering Matanzas
Lunch at San Severino was superb with the restaurant being completely charming and staff attentive.
The prices here in Cuba are ridiculously affordable for us and the portions large. For the same meal in the states, you would probably spend three times the amount. The taste and quality is outstanding and oh so fresh.
After lunch we began some sightseeing and I attempted to shop, but there are not really stores “per-say” but more like locals selling items like clothing, some homemade jewelry and lots of PVC and copper fittings. Not even a postcard to be found.
I saw a gentleman with no legs, sitting on a reconfigured bike and peddling with his arms. He was letting nothing stop him and he was so fast, I barely got a photo in time.
Peter Pan Plays Hide and seek with Piet Hein
We crossed a bridge where someone tried to “give” Han a dog because the dog was pestering the man for whatever was in his shopping bag. Cats, dogs, goats, cattle and chickens all roam freely. Horses are usually tied up to graze, and in such random places.
We were walking in search of the Piet Hein memorial statue that faces the harbor. Along the way we walked the beach some and I was thrilled to find beach glass and a few shells. We took many photos and continued on our way. It was in the middle of the afternoon and it was hot, however we kept trudging along. I also found a large piece of beautiful coral which I gave to Acela and her husband Julio since I would not be allowed to bring it back to the states.
We found the statue and it is cool, how they have him staring out at the bay.
We stopped by the store to pick up some drinks and finally made it back. I literally felt like we were never going to make it. Both Han and I had hurting feet and sunburned faces. One of the best feelings was to sit and put our feet up. We will not be walking that far again in the heat of the day.
Bukan Restaurant
After relaxing we took a much needed shower and prepared for dinner. We asked Acela to join as our guest. She made reservations at one of her favorite restaurants called “Bukan” for 7:00pm. We walked about five blocks and were welcomed into a beautiful upstairs eatery.
Oh the food, the food…just check out the photos of pure food art and all was delicious. The bill came to 32.00 for five bar cocktails, two bottled water and three huge meals. The service was impeccable and warm.
We chatted and laughed throughout dinner and learned a lot about every day life in Cuba these days. We also learned that beef is kind of price reserved for officials and higher-ups. You will not find beef on local menus, which is fine with me since I do not to eat it, plus there is so much to choose from that you will not be lacking in choices. Most entrees consist of seafood, pork and/or chicken. An interesting fact is, cows can not be slaughtered without permission, so if someone really wants beef, they “find” a cow, tie it to the train tracks, the train hits it and “ta-da” beef is now in someone’s freezer. I imagine there is a huge fine and/or imprisonment if one is caught doing this.
Other interesting information was learning, that if locals want to purchase bigger household items (including furniture), they have to travel to Havana and it is only offered once a year in December. Can you imagine the lines and then trying to figure out how to transport it to your home? We in turn explained about what a Super Walmart has to offer. I imagine it is difficult for them to fathom a store like Walmart. Not to offend anyone, as I include myself in this also, but wow we Americans are beyond spoiled.
After dinner, we walked the four blocks back as it was time to call it a night. Sleep comes so much easier here.
Note: We later found out that some restaurants serve beef, especially in Havana, but they are mostly located in the highly congested “ritzy” tourist areas of Havana Vieja.
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