Woke up around 7:00, and was not in the mood for breakfast as it was too early. So I snacked on a piece of bread.Loaded up the car and we were on our way for the 2.5 hour each way daytrip to Pinar del Rio Province and the Viñales Valley area.
The four lane highway between Havana and Pinar del Rio is actually quite nice. We learned so much history along the way. Yasset and especially Pedro are full of knowledge of the area that they enjoy sharing.
They told us people avoid the highway at night due to no lights and therefore roaming animals. Simply too dangerous to take the chance.
What I found enlightening and amusing is the eclectic modes of transportation you will see along the way. As you are flying by going 70mph in a car, you will pass hitchhikers, bicycles, horse and buggies, mopeds, motorcycles with side cars, buses and semis. By the way everything is measured in kilometers and meters in Cuba. To see all this on a four-lane highway was a bit bizarre. Also many police controls, as a result of which I noticed we slowed down substantially upon seeing them.
We stopped along the way to take a potty break and be forewarned you will get mobbed by the country folk trying to sell fruits, cheese, bread, sandwiches, ice cream or whatever they have. Some simply beg for money. I cannot even begin to imagine how difficult it must be to live outside the city area. I mean it really is in the middle of nowhere land.
Going to the toilet was a whole other adventure in itself. Egads…is all I have to say about that.
Hotel Los Jazmines
Our first stop was Hotel Los Jazmines to check out the views down into the valley, indulge in a pina colada, listen to local music and be included in Pedro’s memories of bringing Yassat to swim in the huge pool when he was little. Back then you could use it for .50 cents, however it only cost 8.00 now and seven of that can get you drinks or food.The views are quite stunning and we throughly enjoyed relaxing while listening to the group that calls itself Color Cubano. Han even bought a CD he is now using to put under the photo videos. We walked around the hotel and out to the pool area. I was really, really wanting to jump in the pool. So welcoming and it was blazing hot outside, but we had many things on the agenda and the pool was not one of them. (insert sad face here)
I have read some of the reviews for this hotel and it is basically average, but the row of cottages have higher reviews and are set apart with their own amazing views of rolling hills and a valley dotted with homes and cowboys.
Number One Area in the World for Tobacco Growing
We then traveled a little further out into the countryside and visited a little bar/gift shop/cigar farm with old fashioned tobacco barns. They grow, pick, hang and roll the cigars right there. Viñales is known to be the number one area in the world to grow tobacco. Of course I had to purchase a bundle and get a picture with the very cool guy rolling the cigars. Pedro remembered him from 30 years earlier. It was all a little dreamy and magical. I admired the old plow in the barn, which apparently is still being used. In the restaurant area was a woman singing who had a charming voice too. According to Han the guy accompanying her on guitar was quite remarkable as wellL ovely, just lovely!After driving between hilltops called “The Two Sisters” we arrived at Mural de la Prehistoria. We drove up to the admissions gate and Pedro recognized a friend who was a guard there. He let us enter free of charge, but Pedro bought him and a few other guys some beers. Pedro is quite the gentleman.
This site boast a massive mural, 375 feet long, which was painted on the side of the mountain in 1961 by Leovigildo Gonzalez Morillo, a student of world famous Mexican mural artist Diego Rivera, commissioned by Fidel himself. It took 18 people four years to complete.
The huge snail, dinosaurs, sea monsters and humans symbolize the timeline of evolution and quite honestly is odd at best, but truly impressive when you realize the danger in being involved in the painting process.
Located in the same area is a restaurant, gift shop and horses to ride for 5.00.
We also saw one of the most beautiful white oxen being lead on a leash like a dog. Don’t see that too often.
Viñales, a quaint touristic town
We then traveled to the city center of Viñales, which is quite quaint and does have some tourism. Pedro went in search of a old friend’s home, her name was Mygdalia, and hostess of her own AirB&B. Finally found the address with the help of many locals, she was very happy to meet us, showed us around her home and we climbed to the roof to have a look around. The homes in this area are very colorful and cheerful. However it is quite touristy and if you want a room anywhere, I would suggest planning well ahead. Pedro, Yasset and Mygdalia want to help each other out in suggesting one another AirB&B’s. Her home was lovely and welcoming, she was also cooking some food which made all of us very hungry, so you know what our next stop will be.La Carreta de San Vicente for Lunch
LUNCH!!! As we drove to Pedro’s chosen restaurant, we enjoyed the wonderful, vibrant sights along the way.
This restaurant is set fairly high up where you have to climb a flight of stairs stairs. It is an open air restaurant and the kitchen is open too, so you can see how they cook. It is called “La Carreta de San Vicente”.
They bring out vast amounts of food and way too much to eat. It is a bit pricier than other places we have been, more like USA prices, but the food was good, the beer cold, the company lively and the service outstanding. AND the breeze flowing through was like a slice of heaven on the hot day.
Pedro and I about went round and round about who was going to pay. He kept paying for everything and would not let us. This time I insisted the waitress bring us the check. He said we were his guest, but he had already accrued the cost of so much, including the car. The waitress listened to the Americana (me) and we were on our way again. Sorry, but not sorry Pedro. insert sweet thankful smiley face here. Note: He got us back anyway as we were treated on our last evening to dinner at the house.
Indian Caves
After lunch, Pedro decided we would take a boat ride inside of old Indian caves where you have to walk down into, to get to the boat. Honestly, I have never been too keen on caves, but I went along and was very careful where I stepped. Damn sure did not want to slip and break my butt.Inside was interesting, the boat ride was a bit short (I was okay with that) and when we got out at the end, there was a gentleman making grass baskets. I bought one and gave it to good friend Sharon as a present.
We were planning on some beach time, but we were informed it was still 1 1/2 hours away, so we all voted to bypass that and headed back home. Besides it was getting late and we did not want to drive in the dark.
Yasset slept most of the way home and did not wake until Pedro made a pit stop to pick up some soda and cookies. We all needed some sugar at that point.
When we got home Yasset and Han climbed the spiral staircase to the top and took night photos from the roof. I declined since it was dark and tiny spiral staircases are not my friend. Han stayed up a bit longer and I found my way to bed. Han ate our leftovers from the night before, and I was so tired that I was not even hungry.
It was a long, enjoyable, eventful day with our new wonderful friends/family.
Note: You may not want to bother renting a car in Cuba. It is difficult, expensive and if you do not have connections, you will most likely receive a lemon that will leave you stranded. Even Pedro, who is Cuban national, had to change the car in three times before he received one, a French Renault, that actually drove well and did not break down.Also with any meal or drink, if you get a napkin and it is still usable, pocket it because I promise you will need it down the road for potty breaks. Also have some small change like 10 peso pieces, to pay for bathroom usage. If you give them a dollar, the bathroom attendant considers that payment and you do not receive change back. It can get costly if you are not mindful.
2 comments
What are you going to do with a bundle of tobacco? I hope you don’t chew it. Yuck! Loved the presentation.
It is actually a bundle of cigars, not raw tobacco. We don’t smoke them, but have sold some and gave a few away. Just much better prices than in Havana and they are definitely the real deal.