Feb 06

First Impressions of Havana, Cuba

Streets of Havana Today I’m looking forward to getting the first impressions of Havana, Cuba, something that has been on my bucket list for a long long time.
In the morning, the last one in Matanzas, we were able to relax with our host over coffee and then had the drudgery of packing. I was a bit sad because they truly feel like family now and I will miss them, but we promised to visit again soon.
Our taxi friend Jonel arrived at 12:00 but explained to us that he ate some bad fish and was quite sick from food poisoning, but he felt so bad that he could not drive us to Havana, as we also have become friends. Besides Cubans are very dedicated, respectful human beings, and take responsibility extremely serious.
He said he had called a friend of his, “Derby”, who could take us if we wouldn’t mind. We assured him it was fine. He should go home and rest.
His friend Derby arrived, huge hugs were given and received, then packed up our luggage for the hour and half drive to Havana. We had mountains on one side and crashing ocean waves on the other. Livestock, changing landscapes, domiciles and interesting vegetation were enjoyable to gaze at. There were also several power plants, factories, oil rigs, refineries and of course classic cars along the way. When you see a new car, it is an oddity and seems weird.
Statue of Jose MartiWe arrived in Havana and Han wanted to find a money exchange since the one in Matanzas had been closed for lunch. He went into the shopping mall Carlos III across the street, but the line was too long. Our taxi driver, Derby bought me some pan “bread” to snack on while we waited. It was yummy. He was a lot of fun to “try” and talk with and full of information. By the way, if you find an eatery or bread store and there is a line waiting to get in, then get in line because it is known to be the best around. Just like the bread store, the line never slowed down.
Note: Just give up on opening your own car door, especially if you are a woman. Cuban men are chivalrous to a fault. They offer their hand to help you and definitely will not allow you to carry luggage.

Paraiso Rojo, our AirBnB in Central Havana

We quickly found our way to our AirBNB hosts, unloaded the car, paid Derby and checked in. Actually Pedro, our host paid Derby in CUC (convertible pesos) and Han paid Pedro in USD.
Wow, our new host family bends over backwards to make sure you know anything and everything about your surroundings, and to make sure you feel it is your own home immediately. They take your luggage to your room, they show you completely around the house and point out things like fresh fruit and beverages to help yourselves to, provide customized maps of the area, explained our requested itinerary of tours and even explain the money (even though we already knew many of the things cousin Jorge informed us on). Unlike us, most of their guests fly into Havana and come straight to the house.
Pedro is also going to arrange some Cohiba Cigars for us, so we don’t have to go in search of them. It is tricky to find authentic cigars on the street, unless you know someone, or buy from government stores which are very costly at up to 25.00 CUC per Cohiba cigar.
There is a secret to buying Cuban cigars, that only the locals know, but that evening there was a knock on our door and Han went down to take ownership of a beautiful box, sealed in his presence. A quick and easy experience you only get from trustworthy people like the Arbolaez family.
In the living room we spoke with two other guest couples, who were sadly on their way back home. They were delightful and I wish they could have stuck around longer, because they would have definitely been fun to hang out with.
Note: We are now all Facebook friends. Maybe one day, we will meet up on Cuba again.

 Walking the Neighborhoods to a Restaurant in China Town

Jorge, who was giving us all the details upon arrival, asked if we were hungry and I was actually “hangry” at this point, so he offered to walk us to one of their favorite restaurants, La Flor de Loto, and show us the way.
On the way through neighborhoods we stopped in a huge church and I lit a candle for my mama, just as I had done all over Europe last year.
It was majestic with intricate details and stained glass windows. We took a few moments to look around, then off we went to eat.
The restaurant was hopping busy, but we were quickly seated.
Jorge had told us the portions are huge and what an understatement that was. Han and I both packaged up over half our meal and out the door for the 20 minute stroll home since we were tired.
We had just turned the corner and a nice man sitting on his stoop pointed at the plastic bag and asked us for the food. He had a wife and small child standing behind him, with little to no furnishings inside his home. I did not hesitate and realized with him asking, his family must really be in need because Cuban people are a very proud people. They were so sweet and appreciative, and we gained such a warm feeling.
Note: We later found out that many people purposely congregate nearby in hopes of receiving your leftovers. It is up to you, but it can never hurt to be kind to your fellow man. However, the family we gave our food to, actually lived around the corner, and who can say no to a child?

The Carlos III Shopping Mall Experience

We decided to walk a little further down the street to the mall in search of a hat for me, because tomorrow is our walking tour of Central and Old Havana and my face needs a break from the direct sun. Found a cute floppy hat for 11.70 CUC, but we were short of about 10 cents in change. The cashier/clerk waved us away as in no worries, bagged the hat and I guess that was a small version of paying it forward.
Cuba is familyThe malls and restaurants in Cuba have huge play areas for children and they have such loving parents. Family is number one in Cuba. I saw a young man of maybe 19, walking arm in arm with his elderly grandmother and he was so gentle with her. Just a lovely and loving culture here, and I wish it were so around the entire world.
I admired one of the cutest babies who was approximately two weeks old, and the mother offered for me to hold her. I was amazed but declined and I hope I did not offend her. It just took me by surprise because no one outside of family is going to offer you to hold their baby in the states. I wish now I had, and if given this chance again I will just be honored that she wanted to share her baby with me. That was the only time I felt our cultures clash, but not in a bad way of course. My first impressions of Havana Cuba are overwhelmingly positive.
On the way back to our home, Han mentioned I was being checked out. LOL With my thick figure I fit right in and with being light skinned, I am definitely a unique sight to them I suppose. I teased Han that if I am ever in the market for another husband, I will hit up Cuba.
One of our hosts “Yasset” invited us out to a local bar down the street for a drink, but since both of us have aching feet and sore limbs, we opted out, but promised to join him tomorrow. (Yasset has lived in Miami since he was 19 years of age, but has the desire to move back to Cuba. He and his father own the AirBNB home.)
I also asked Yasset if it was common for local folks to ask for food and he said no, so it made me feel even better to help out the family. So if you ever get to Cuba, feed someone, it does the heart good.
Our AirBNB is located in Central Havana inside a real Cuban neighborhood with everyone visiting in the streets and yelling down to friends from balconies. Of course we joined in. The B&B itself is well appointed and super clean, even though the furnishings are that of a trailer park type furniture from the 60’s and 70’s. Come to think of it, just like the vintage cars, the furniture is vintage as well. I, myself, found it charming. I am not into the resort type of vacations. I love being in the thick of things, like sitting out on the balcony, smoking a cigarette and waving at people passing by. My first impressions of Havana Cuba are fabulous. People are friendly and the city is the safest city I’ve ever walked around in.
Note:
Pedestrians do not have the right of way. Streets are meant for motorized vehicles, so if you happen to cross the street, you need to be mindful about oncoming traffic. Most locals walk in the streets due to some being injured by falling deteriorated balconies. Yeah, concrete or bricks on the head, not so good.
Also, if you are sensitive to car fumes, it is best for you to find another destination than Havana. The main streets are often very smoky, but as stated before, there are an abundance of back streets and are more interesting to check out.

Feb 05

Callejon de las Tradiciones, Afro-Cuban History in Matanzas

Afro-Cuban heritage in MatanzasWe had a very leisurely morning and were in no hurry to rush about. Cannot think of anything better than sitting on the porch with coffee and donuts (these donuts are dense and perfect for coffee dipping), while enjoying the breeze off the water.
Around noon we called for our new taxi friend “Josnel” to go into Mantanzas to see the “Callejon De Las Tradiciones”. This street is in memory of African Heritage. Every piece of art work has a different and important symbolic meaning. Found it quite unique and interesting.
One of the funniest things was this dog on top of a building, keeping watch on the neighborhood below. He was so adorable and funny. I took quite a few pictures of him. The neighbors assured me he knew better than to jump off the roof.
Afterwards we went to Montserrate, which had huge panoramic views of Mantazas country side and the bay. While there we met a man who had a small falcon on a leash that both Han and I held. He was so tame.
There is also a church and three restaurants to check out. The restaurants were quite pricey, so we went back into town and treated our taxi friend to a Cuban sandwich and croquettes at La Vigia in the Cuartel Bomberos, the gathering place for arts and culture in Matanzas, also named “The Athens of Cuba”.
Note: Obviously that area of Montserrate is geared towards tourism, hence the prices, so I suggest just a drink and take in the scenery and find your way back into town for lunch.
While eating we heard someone singing and I had to go check it out. There was a gentleman who already had one too many beverages (boracha?), as he was singing AND dancing on the outside deck area. He did not bother anyone, so no one stopped him. It was free entertainment and considering how buzzed he was, he did quite well.
We had a good laugh over lunch at Han’s expense because Josnel offered him a Cuban cigarette and explained it was strong. Han took some puffs and was fine until it became closer to the end and Han could not even finish it. He was coughing and sputtering a bit. I thought Josnel was going to fall off his chair from laughing.
 
We have had fun getting to know our taxi drivers who happen to be identical twins. Their names are Josnel and Jonel.
They each work every other day about 16 hours, so we get to see them both quite a bit. Both are friendly, accommodating wonderful men of 39 years of age who adore their families and Cuba. They are not shy about exclaiming love for their families. It is so refreshing. Everywhere you go, people want to share photos of family members, especially their children.
We had him drop us off at the beach once again, at the edge of town, so I could search for more shells and sea glass and once again it was freaking HOT outside, and did not help that we were still red from yesterday, but dang our fat butts need the exercise.
Found only a few pieces at the first beach, but the second area was sea glass mania. I loaded up my pockets very fast and Han found my favorite colored one in the shape of a heart and said it was my Valentine’s Day gift. Best gift I have ever received for Valentine’s and I will be making a necklace out of it. For now it is safely in my purse.
From there we made our hot sweaty way back to our lovely casa and took a much needed cooling off period. I felt like wringing myself out. LOL
Dinner was once again to the wonderful restaurant “Bukan” and we took both our hosts out since Julio was off work. I still cannot get over how inexpensive and delicious food is here. We enjoyed three salads (by the way the very best caesar salad I have ever tasted), four large potent alcoholic beverages, bottled water and four huge entrees for only 43.00 CUC. We had a lovely evening, but after having beaten by the sun for two solid days, I sadly had to say good-night and go to bed. Han followed shortly thereafter.
Note:
Bottled water at all times. Keep some with you.
We have spoken to many locals now and most are thankful for the easing of the embargo, but they clearly do not want their island to change too much or become the newest place to install fast food restaurants and Starbuck’s on every corner. I personally hope that is a long way off. To ruin the natural beauty would be a crime.

Feb 04

Varadero, beautiful as it is, is the other Cuba

Today our taxi driver “Jonel” picked us up at 10:00 sharp and off we went for a day in Varadero. The 30-minute drive over is quite stunning and the roads are amazing. He said they are the only really good roads in Cuba. I guess it is due to the fact that the Varadero Peninsula is a resort town and very unlike the rest of Cuba. A bit more Disney than authentic, it was nice but I prefer (as Han does too) real authentic life and everything that goes along with it.

He told us that he could drop us off in town, but could not legally pick us up, so he showed us a pick up point to meet him later in the day. Only government taxi’s can pick up visitors. Varadero is overly particular about tourist and their safety.

We actually had to pay a small toll to get into Varadero. It is definitely its own little world set at the end of the peninsula.

Spectacular Beaches

Now don’t get me wrong, the place is lovely and the beaches are spectacular which was first on our want-to-do list today.

The water is stunning, but at this time of year it was too cold still for swimming for us Caribbean island folks, so we soaked up some sun and the beautiful day. Plenty of people in the water, but they had to be from Canada or the North Pole. When after a while the wind started kicking up and sand (which is very fine and white) began covering everything, including ourselves, we gathered up and went into town.

Varadero Village

There is a very unique mall which is half way underground, and set up as six modular circles that all intertwine with each other and features beautiful garden areas throughout. There is also a money exchange if you need one. The mall is called, “Plaza Caracol Commercial Center”.

Along the streets are vendors selling everything from souvenirs to food. We passed by one food vendor which served heaping plates of food for two dollars, but it was take-away or stand and eat, but we opted out since I wanted out of the heat for a bit and just relax.

We chose a cute restaurant called “La Rampa” and sat on the patio. Ordered some drinks then sat back getting buzzed while waiting for the food. My meal was so good that I was basically quiet throughout lunch, so I must have been very hungry.

The table next to us sat a family of Russians who were nice, but kind of bossy to the waitress. Russians have a very negative influence here and Cubans are not fond of them. They are considered drunks who quickly get violent. The police have no problem locking their asses up. LOL

The police are everywhere and they are not to be trifled with. They have zero tolerance for bad behavior. You see them constantly scanning their surroundings, always on alert.

Cars, cars, classic and vintage cars are in abundance and I can sit for hours and just watch them drive by. Some are so decked out and flashy that it seems one is in kind of a dream state. It is literally stepping back in time to a more serene, easy way of life. We sat and enjoyed the scene while waiting for the, “jump on, jump off, tour bus to take us around the island. Double decker buses come by every 20 minutes and it cost five dollars per person. It is just for sightseeing and not an actually guided tour, as there are no earphones or explanations, but you are able to see quite a bit.

All Inclusive Resorts

There are so many resorts that it boggles the mind and an outstanding marina where huge catamarans sit in wait to take tourist aboard. Tours, excursions and things to do are in huge supply here. Everything from golf to camel rides are offered. I actually saw two camels, and thought it an odd sight until I later read that they are housed at Josone Park that boast a botanical garden and more.

Spas, malls, parks, lounges, night clubs, caves, Dolphinarium, safaris, boats, fishing, factory tours, trains, scuba and of course 20 miles of beaches are available to keep you busy for days on end.

Of course I did a little shopping, but only with the local vendors. There is so much to choose from and I even located some postcards.

When we arrived near our original jump on point, we jumped off the bus because I saw a store that sold Cuban flags. I had to have one, not sure what I will do with it, but it was calling to me. Did a little more shopping, then strolled into a small restaurant called, “Melaito” to enjoy some Cuban coffee and ice-cream.

After chatting with some locals, we meandered our way back to our pick up destination. Of course along the way we were targeted by a “jineterio”, but if you tell them sternly no, they will friendly back off. You do not want to deal with these characters, as they are only after your money. Not to so call steal it, but they are con-artists, preying on tourists.

Note: The Cuban flag is now proudly displayed in our living room.

We arrived a little earlier than the taxi, so we had time to throughly enjoy watching some locals fish off the rocks. Many use just lines that they throw by hand. It is such a graceful technique and I don’t understand how they don’t have burn marks from the fishing line whipping through their fingers when they cast out. They manually spool the line to reel it back in. It is an art form of nature.

The Canimar River Bridge

On the way back to Mantanzas our taxi driver took us on a side trip to show us a fishing spot that is underneath a huge archway bridge built in 1951 called Puente “Antonio Guitaras”. It was very peaceful and beautiful, and I of course enjoyed finding seashells and some pretty rocks. The water is clear and fish are in abundance. I took my sandals off and let the fresh water cool my feet. Delightful…

There were some locals present catching dinner for the evening.

When we arrived “home” we relaxed on the front porch with a couple of drinks while waiting for our host. They had been out visiting relatives. We once again had dinner together and I cooked some pan bread with butter, garlic and pepper. Acela grinds everything with a mortar and this was a first for me to smash garlic in the old style of cooking. The bread was yummy and perfectly accompanied our leftovers from last night, which was even tastier than the night before.

After dinner they offered us dessert of small bundt cakes with guava pudding, and a simple dish of hand shredded coconut and vanilla that Julio’s 91 year old auntie makes.

The coconut was the likes of NOTHING I have ever tasted. My taste buds were in heaven. I cannot even describe this delicacy.

Tonight we turned on the AC for the first time, since our skin was radiating heat from the sun, it was much needed.

I feel so at peace here and beyond serene.

Note:

1.Always carry little packages of tissue with you. Most restrooms do not have toilet paper, as it gets taken on a regular basis. Pick up some from the Dollar Store before your trip.

2. Purchasing internet access cards here is very easy and also simple to use. The cards give you one hour of time for two dollars each. You can only purchase three cards at a time though.

Feb 03

Quickly Getting Used to the Cuban Lifestyle

There is still much admiration for Che in Cuba

There is still much admiration for Che in Cuba

Last night ended up not being restful. Garbage is picked up in early morning hours  in the neighborhood and the dogs go crazy and it was quite loud.After about an hour, they all finally settled down and so did we. This also reminds me of island life, but not so homey. LOL. Yet the Cuban lifestyle is tranquilo.

And then we woke up to a beautiful, clear cool morning. Temperatures on the north coast of Cuba may go down to about 60° in the winter nights, much like Key West. It’s refreshing and even though the room has air conditioning we didn’t need it at all.

Coffee on the porch again, followed by a yummy breakfast of eggs, ham, cheese, toast and pastry, as Chirri the dog rested peacefully near by. I was tempted to bark in his ear. Actually he is a very good dog and sweet. Our host and hostess rescued him off the streets. He appears very thankful, and is an excellent guard dog.

Walked to the nearby, very small, limited inventory, grocery store to find the ingredients for Han who was to cook dinner this evening.

On the way, I wanted to stop and search for sea glass and shells, so we checked out the little lagoon where the locals go swimming. They call it Allende Beach. Found quite a few treasures from the sea, then we sat underneath a beautiful tree on a bench in the shade to cool off. What an amazing breeze off the water. It cools you off quite fast.

Note: Most vehicles run on leaded gas or diesel. Walking along main streets with all the vehicles can be a bit overpowering with fumes. Just know that it is normal, but we tried to walk the back streets whenever possible.

Our taxi picked us up at 2:00pm to take us back into town so we could meet with historian Ercilio Vento Canosa again and Han could download his book to hopefully get it published when we get back stateside. I wanted to bring him a little something today, as I had brought a few things from the states as gifts. Previously when looking around his office I noticed some things missing. So I took him a large bag of rubber bands in a variety of sizes. The gift was a hit because rubber bands are rare to find in Cuba. No office is complete without them of course. LOL Wish I had thought of paperclips as well.

On the way back, our taxi friend Josnel, one of the two identical twins, had waited to drive us back and we asked him to let us off at a government grocery store to pick up some Tequila and Havana Club rum, my favorite drink to relax with. His charge for driving us both ways and more than an hour of waiting…12 CUC!

Came back to the house, drank some coffee and relaxed until dinner time. I took a little reading siesta. When in Cuba…!

Han whipped up an excellent dinner. Acela told us that this was a first for them, to have a guest cook in their kitchen. During dinner we learned that Julio has a difficult time in getting enough writing pens for his administrative job at the Airport, so I grabbed a package that we brought with us and gave it to him for work. Such small things truly make a difference to these caring lovely people of Cuba.

We had a wonderful time over dinner, then moved the party outside. Plenty of drinks, laughter and stories. Perfectly marvelous evening with fantastic company and weather.

I think we called it a night around 11:00pm.

Note:Wave and call “hola” to everyone you meet (don’t pronounce the H! however). You will find friends everywhere.

Feb 02

Waking Up to the Sounds of Home in Matanzas, Cuba

Magic transpired this morning. I woke up to the sounds of home in Matanzas, Cuba. Horns honking, dogs barking, people yelling ‘buenos dias’ and roosters crowing. Some of you may know that I used to live in St. Maarten and in my heart consider it home still. So it was delightful this morning to feel (and hear) the comforts of home again.

We relaxed on the front porch overlooking the bay while we relished in our Cuban coffee and fruit salad for breakfast. (I could get used to this.)

When we explained to our host Acela that Han was planning to write a story about Dutch Admiral Piet Hein, who in 1628 conquered the Spanish Treasure Fleet in the Bay of Matanzas, she went on the phone and fifteen minutes later had an appointment set for us with Dr. Ercilio Vento Canosa, the historian for the city of Matanzas and well-known around Cuba. Another 15 minutes later our arranged taxi arrived and off we went to meet with Dr. Canosa who apparently had written a documentary manuscript about the events back in 1628, titled ‘La Flota de la Plata’ (the Silver Fleet).

We were lightly warned that he was not a very friendly man, but we found the complete opposite to be true. He was very excited to meet with us and talk about his passions and the book he wrote about Piet Hein and the Silver Fleet.

He speaks multiple languages fluently and matched Han’s brain cells to brain cells. LOL They hit it off immediately. I kept up as best I could, but obviously missed quite a bit due to only understanding English.

I am getting my Rosetta Stone Spanish Course out as soon as I get home.

Dr. Ercilio Vento Canosa

Besides being a medical doctor and historian, Dr. Canosa is also an accomplished artist and many of his masterpieces hang in his office. I was very flattered that he was so welcoming and took much time with us. Han is going to try to help him get his book published.

He gave us one of his prized archeological mementos, and asked us not to tell anyone. (so it is a secret, shhh.) At the time we were not sure if he was not allowed to give us the artifact, but later we learned that he did not want everyone in town to come and ask for something too. The story is that it is a piece of a nail from a Spanish Galleon, that sank during the 1628 battle in the Bay and given to him, by a diver in Jacques Cousteau’s team, who were diving for artifacts in 1986, when they lost a little submarine in the bay. Ercilio also told us that Canadian superstar film maker James Cameron (Titanic, Avatar etc.) is preparing a treasure dive expedition in the bay, as many historic insiders believe that a lot of Silver Fleet treasure is still buried under the sediment of time. For details on why that is very possible, you’ll have to read Ercilio Vento’s manuscript after we publish it, as it has to do with how the Spanish layered the gold and silver throughout their vessels.

Afterwards he strolled with us across the town square and introduced us to the owner of his favorite restaurant where he suggested us to have lunch.

They were expecting a party to come in and at first had no room for us, but after Ercilio (Dr. Canosa) spoke to the owner, a table was arranged for us. We already have connections in Cuba. How bad ass is that?

He was not able to join us, but we will be seeing him again tomorrow afternoon.

Discovering Matanzas

Lunch at San Severino was superb with the restaurant being completely charming and staff attentive.

The prices here in Cuba are ridiculously affordable for us and the portions large. For the same meal in the states, you would probably spend three times the amount. The taste and quality is outstanding and oh so fresh.

After lunch we began some sightseeing and I attempted to shop, but there are not really stores “per-say” but more like locals selling items like clothing, some homemade jewelry and lots of PVC and copper fittings. Not even a postcard to be found.

I saw a gentleman with no legs, sitting on a reconfigured bike and peddling with his arms. He was letting nothing stop him and he was so fast, I barely got a photo in time.

Peter Pan Plays Hide and seek with Piet Hein

We crossed a bridge where someone tried to “give” Han a dog because the dog was pestering the man for whatever was in his shopping bag. Cats, dogs, goats, cattle and chickens all roam freely. Horses are usually tied up to graze, and in such random places.

We were walking in search of the Piet Hein memorial statue that faces the harbor. Along the way we walked the beach some and I was thrilled to find beach glass and a few shells. We took many photos and continued on our way. It was in the middle of the afternoon and it was hot, however we kept trudging along. I also found a large piece of beautiful coral which I gave to Acela and her husband Julio since I would not be allowed to bring it back to the states.

We found the statue and it is cool, how they have him staring out at the bay.

We stopped by the store to pick up some drinks and finally made it back. I literally felt like we were never going to make it. Both Han and I had hurting feet and sunburned faces. One of the best feelings was to sit and put our feet up. We will not be walking that far again in the heat of the day.

 

Bukan Restaurant

After relaxing we took a much needed shower and prepared for dinner. We asked Acela to join as our guest. She made reservations at one of her favorite restaurants called “Bukan” for 7:00pm. We walked about five blocks and were welcomed into a beautiful upstairs eatery.

Oh the food, the food…just check out the photos of pure food art and all was delicious. The bill came to 32.00 for five bar cocktails, two bottled water and three huge meals. The service was impeccable and warm.

We chatted and laughed throughout dinner and learned a lot about every day life in Cuba these days. We also learned that beef is kind of price reserved for officials and higher-ups. You will not find beef on local menus, which is fine with me since I do not to eat it, plus there is so much to choose from that you will not be lacking in choices. Most entrees consist of seafood, pork and/or chicken. An interesting fact is, cows can not be slaughtered without permission, so if someone really wants beef, they “find” a cow, tie it to the train tracks, the train hits it and “ta-da” beef is now in someone’s freezer. I imagine there is a huge fine and/or imprisonment if one is caught doing this.

Other interesting information was learning, that if locals want to purchase bigger household items (including furniture), they have to travel to Havana and it is only offered once a year in December. Can you imagine the lines and then trying to figure out how to transport it to your home? We in turn explained about what a Super Walmart has to offer. I imagine it is difficult for them to fathom a store like Walmart. Not to offend anyone, as I include myself in this also, but wow we Americans are beyond spoiled.

After dinner, we walked the four blocks back as it was time to call it a night. Sleep comes so much easier here.

Note: We later found out that some restaurants serve beef, especially in Havana, but they are mostly located in the highly congested “ritzy” tourist areas of Havana Vieja.

Load more