It was early January 2020 – Covid 19 was just an inch away from stopping the world in its travel tracks – and we were in the Netherlands visiting our family and being that it was winter, it was very cold, dreary and damp. Typical weather for Holland in the early days of the year. Much like Washington State. So we walked into the village of Horst, where Han’s brother and sister in law lived, and sat down with a real old fashioned brick and mortar travel agent. We needed a bit more warmth and outside activities, after all it was still almost 4 months before we had to be back on island running the Beaver Island Lodge in Lake Michigan.
Looking at a ton of offerings, we finally settled on Portugal and in hindsight beyond thankful for that decision. Being a European citizen, Han had been in Portugal many times before, but I almost instantly fell in love with the country and its people. So much really, that a handful of years later, we decided to move there.
There was a lovely and very affordable 14 day package with air put together by the Jupiter Algarve Hotel in Portimåo, or even more precise Praia da Rocha. They are rated the 5th best hotels on TripAdvisor with a 4.5 rating. They deserve that and more. The entrance is beautifully decorated and first impressions exceeded our expectations.
https://www.jupiteralgarvehotel.com/en/
Quick flight on KLM- Royal Dutch Airlines owned Transavia Airlines from Eindhoven in Holland to a cute little airport in Faro-South Portugal , the hotel offers shuttle service, and even though it is a bit of a coastal drive west (60 minutes plus), you get the chance to enjoy the absolutely gorgeous countryside.
Upon arrival, our room was not ready since we were quite early. Did not feel like walking around, as we were tired, so we made the huge mistake of strolling into the well-appointed bar to have a drink. It wasn’t even noon yet!??
Lo and behold, we had no idea that we were basically walking into a human trap and a future funny story.
Who are the only people sitting at the bar, but an Irish couple, well on their way into oblivion. I felt like fresh meat, since they glommed onto us immediately and began to tell us their sketchy life story over drinks. Much too much to write here, so you will have to use your imagination, emphasizing the word “sketchy”. Just know we had no other choice but to avoid them like the plague after that episode.
Once the room was ready, we grabbed our belongings and went up to our new home for the next two weeks. WOWZA! On the 6th floor, large room, balcony facing the ocean and thankfully very clean. Surprisingly quiet too because by this point, I needed a nap.
Morning was an unexpected delight when seeing the breakfast included with the package. I have literally never seen such a spread offered before. The food catered to so many different nationalities and taste, the variety and amount will leave your mouth agape at first, service was impeccable, dining room set up like a 5 star restaurant and everything was fresh and delicious. After breakfast, you will be just fine until dinner.
We enjoyed the coastline, friendliest people of any country (except maybe Cuba), best and easiest transit system, the added tours operated by the hotel, affordability of restaurants and groceries, meeting new people and learning the history. Portugal offers just as much diverse landscape as the US, but in a much smaller accessible size.
Most all natives speak English, has large expat communities, weather is mild, much like Southern California, affordable housing and there really is so much of the good life to enjoy. No wonder folks decide to retire here.
Some highlights, to avoid writing a novel:
Cork Trees: Portugal produces approximately half of the cork harvested annually worldwide. The cork trees are incredible. They are like Oak trees with an additional coat. The best cork is used for bottle stoppers, the remainder is used for everything else. Practically any souvenir you can imagine, can be made from cork.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cork_(material)
We met three future friends. Helena from Porto and a married couple, David and Glenda, from the UK. (edited note: we are still friends to this day and just visited David and Glenda in England.)
Wood storks: The Portuguese do not like them because they eat and destroy the crops. Their nests are huge, as are they, and their sound is like no other bird I have ever heard, especially their mating sounds. They are also known as White Storks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agTELt-kuxw
Lagos: An easy trip via bus from the hotel. So many places to explore, learn history, take pictures, eat, shop, drink, sightseeing…….this town has it all. Don’t forget to purchase an item made from their famous cork. I purchased a small crossbody. It’s soft, vegan, floats and is lovely.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lagos,_Portugal
Sagres: aka “the end of the world”
Cape St Vincent, the southwestern outcrop in Portugal, was seen as being the end of the world before the 15th Century. When merchant sailors came out of the Mediterranean Sea sailing into the Atlantic through the Pillars of Hercules (Gibraltar), this was the last point they saw. There is not a lot to see except some old building turned souvenir shops one high cliffs, but the trip is so worth it with the lighthouse, gazing out over the beautiful yet vast tumultuous sea, cliffs that drop down hundreds of feet, with birds nestled in crevices, locals standing on barely a tiny ledge while fishing (this made me so nervous to watch) and this is a landmark point for ships passing and one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes, coming out of the Mediterranean, in the world. The ever changing nature on the way down is mesmerizing, as are the many mom-and-pop tile and pottery factories.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sagres_(Vila_do_Bispo)
Sardines: The #1 Portuguese food “group”. Not a favorite of mine, however Han was in sardine heaven. All along the coastline you will find quaint fishing villages where you can eat freshly caught and prepared sardine meals. I’m learning now that sardines are some of the healthiest foods around.
Wiki: Sardines play an important role in Portuguese cuisine and culture. Historically a people who depend heavily on the sea for food and commerce, the Portuguese have a predilection for fish in their popular festivities. The most important is Saint Anthony‘s day, June 13, when Portugal’s biggest popular festival takes place in Lisbon, where grilled sardines are the snack of choice. Almost every place in Portugal, from Figueira da Foz to Portalegre, from Póvoa de Varzim to Olhão, has the summertime tradition of eating grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas).
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